When I first started work on a cookery magazine we used to test a lot of recipes at weekends. One of the first I tested was a kind of rum-flavoured fritter. The mixture was unbelievably sticky – like kneading half a pound of Bostik – and I kept adding more this and that to try to get a decent consistency. That, after all, was the point of testing the recipes. Eventually, I reckoned it was about right and started deep-frying the "fingers". The first one into the hot oil swelled … and swelled … and swelled until it was nearly the size of a pillow. That particular recipe was never published.
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