It is a complicated question. I always like to have one smart good quality wool coat in my wardrobe. My preferred colour is dark grey. I cannot wear black, it kills me.
About 10 years ago I spent two winters trying to find one in the shops before finally resorting to ebay and buying jacques Vert coat for £55.
Towards the end of last winter, after 10 years wear the coat sort of died on me and went all shapeless, so at the beginning of this winter I started to look again and quite simply, if I want a coat comparable with my Jacques Vert coat, even if I buy it from M&S, I will get little or no change from £200. Most 100% wool coats cost upwards of £200. This time, despite searching I can find nothing to meet my specification on ebay or vinted.
The cause, quite simply, is inflation. The price of food, fuel and all the basics of life have nearly doubled sice COVID and it applies to good quality clothes as well.
My purchase in the end was quite by chance. I was in River Island with daughter when she was clothes shopping when she drew my attention to a long military style coat in a very dark olive green, not a style I had had in mind. The coat is only 30% wool and I have had to replace the buttons because the buttons on the coat were so cheap and nasty, as well as turn it up, I am only5ft 2in., but it still cost me £110 and I am really still not convinced of its longevity. I doubt it will last a decade like my Jacques Vert coat, I feel that in about three years I will be in the market again for a decent coat.