In 1976 my Greek flatmate's parents invited me to spend 6 weeks with them on their home island of Kefalonia, which was at that time very much off the beaten track. There was no electricity so we used oil lamps at night, and no running water so we had to draw water from the well every morning. To wash, you threw a bucket of water over yourself, then soaped yourself, then rinsed with another bucket of water. To get to the beach we'd have to hitch hike, often riding on the back of farmers' trucks piled high with fruit and vegetables. We ate at the local taverna, the only one in the small village, where the owner was very perplexed by my being vegetarian and kept trying to tempt me with various bits of meat. His saying to me "Thelis kreas?" (do you want meat?) while offering me souvlaki etc. became a standing joke. Back home, we would sit out on the veranda drinking ouzo and my friend's father, who had been a merchant seaman all his life, would tell us stories about his travels. He knew all the constellations and would point them out and tell us how they got their names. I've never seen as many shooting stars as I did back then, probably because there was no light pollution. My friend's parents kept apologising that it was not modern like England, but I loved it.