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Local peasant food gone 'posh'

(78 Posts)
granjura Tue 06-Jan-15 11:11:32

Always makes me laugh when traditional local recipes, which used to be the stapple diet of ordinary 'man' or even the 'poor' - go all posh with ridiculous prices.

Recently talked about 'raclette' a dish served in all posh ski resorts at exhorbitant prices, in another thread. In the old days, actually well into the 20C- farmers from the Alps would be up in the mountains year round- and perhaps only come down to the market in the valley once or twice a year. They would be stuck up there al winter- without availability of fresh food- hence all the pickling of veg, gherkins, onions, etc, grown during the Summer, bottling and also pickling of cabbage (sauerkraut) and salting, smoking or drying of meat- and the storing of cheese and lots of potatoes, and of course local white wine. Meals in winter consisted of an endless combination of the above- with 3 main favourites, raclette, fondue and tartiflette. Really poor man's fare, and must have been so boring after a while. Now all 3 dishes are expensive mainstays of ski resorts menus- and I always find it funny- as few of the tourists are aware of the history and tradition behind them.

'racler' means to scrape- and any noun with 'ette' at the end means 'a little version of' (like maison for house, and maisonette for a hut)- so raclette means a 'little scrape'. Potatoes would be boiled, and the cheese placed on a stone by the fire, and when hot scraped onto the potatoes, and served with any pickled veg.

Tartiflette is a dish made of boiled potates mixed with 'lard' = fat smoked bacon, onions, and a bit of cream (cream was of course not a posh ingredient on a farm). Most of the cattle would be slaughtered in the autumn, as it was impossible to keep them in winter, no space and not enough fodder- and just a few kept to keep them in milk in winter and start again in Spring- one cow was kept with its calf tied up in a corner of the barn- close enough that she could smell it and hear it- but not close enough for it to suckle- so she would continue to produce milk (a cruel necessity)- and the cattle would be kept below the main châlet to insulate from the cold!

Ooops, sorry, it turned out longer than intended.

Your local stories about local 'peasant' food would be interesting, thanks.

vampirequeen Fri 09-Jan-15 21:11:05

We gleaned our Christmas sprouts after the harvest. The farmer can't get the harvester into the corners of the field so they're left to go to seed.

petra Fri 09-Jan-15 13:43:28

We still go and pick our own Mussels and Oysters. It's ok, they are not on licensed beds. Beautiful, and free.
We like to dip the Oysters in a Tempura batter and deep fried.

loopylou Thu 08-Jan-15 07:47:24

The 'small vegetables' trend seems to apply to a number of them - sweet corn, leeks, potatoes etc, all with inflated prices. Years ago the small ones would have been discarded!

vampirequeen Wed 07-Jan-15 21:38:03

grin

When I was little they used to sell very small tomatoes in the market for next to nothing.

Then suddenly they became cherry tomatoes and shot up in price.

janeainsworth Wed 07-Jan-15 21:30:44

Ann shockgrin

annsixty Wed 07-Jan-15 21:09:35

This reminds me of the tourist whe went to a restaurant in Spain and was intrigued by the table of four next to him whose food looked and smelled wonderful and was drooled over by the customers.When he asked the proprieter what it was he was told that they had a contract to be supplied with the bulls testicles after a bullfight,it was a great delicacy but they had all been sold that evening. However if the tourist wished he would ring him the next time they had supplies. When he rang the tourist turned up full of anticipation and was presented with a plate of very pale and small pieces of meat. When he complained the proprieter just shrugged and said "who said the matador always wins?"

papaoscar Wed 07-Jan-15 18:29:12

When I was a lad in Africa centuries ago dried strips of spiced meat called biltong were a real treat. Delicious! Now you can buy little packets of beef jerky which are very similar. Both very low in calories but you have to like meat.

Jennypops Wed 07-Jan-15 17:40:42

When I was married to my first husband I used to buy Lemon Sole from the fish market in Plymouth for3/6d a pound,it was delicious.My MIL at the time thought I was feeding her son on 'cheap food' ,now I just look longingly at it in Waitrose £17.00 a kilo.Wish I could afford it now.

granjura Wed 07-Jan-15 16:30:32

samphire is a bit like wild mushrooms- ridiculously priced in restaurants- and for them have to be pyo.

Galen Wed 07-Jan-15 15:25:18

Ris taste super. I like them boiled, sliced, then covered in a wine and cheese sauce!

FlicketyB Wed 07-Jan-15 15:15:43

A spanih cousin served a delicious dish of tripe. She wouldn't tell us what the meat was until we had eaten it. The stew was rich with herbs spices tomatoes and chorizo.

I took the recipe home with me but it obviously didn't travel well because in all my attempts to make it I never got a satisfactory result.

NfkDumpling Wed 07-Jan-15 14:53:38

Anyone can pick samphire - but be careful, it's illigal to pull the roots up.

NfkDumpling Wed 07-Jan-15 14:50:45

I'm very pleased the ris taste horrible Flickety. Now I'm definitely not tempted!

granjura Wed 07-Jan-15 14:46:07

As a mountain girl, I had never heard about samphire. But I first found out about it when we used to go Youth Hostelling in Norfolk and we bought some at Morston Dock. Each year we found our own, picking a bit here, and a bit there- and used it with garlic and butter on spagettis. Yum.

loopylou Wed 07-Jan-15 14:38:58

Cow's udder!!! That is a new one to me!
In Italy two years ago we went to a village fete way up in the Dolomites, we were the only English people there and were encouraged to try tripe....politely declined by everyone bar my DS who gamefully ate it while we tucked into the local sausages (utterly delicious!). He said it wasn't bad but wouldn't eat it again.
DH said his mother used to boil it in milk and it tasted like ancient flannels (goodness how he knew that!)

Galen Wed 07-Jan-15 14:32:18

I love all offal except tripe, pigs trotters and cows udder.
I cooked stuffed hearts a couple of months ago.

tiggypiro Wed 07-Jan-15 13:45:30

About 15 yrs ago when DD worked in Changchun (about 500 miles N of Beijing) she took me to a 'Bone restaurant'. The whole menu was based on bones and we had 'bone soup'. If you were lucky you could find a bit of meat still on the bone. People at the next table were sucking marrow out of a pile of bones.
No doubt the concept (but not the prices) will be coming to a high street near you soon !

Greyduster Wed 07-Jan-15 13:23:58

I remember sitting on the shingle out at Blakeney Point waiting for a boat to pick us up and picking snippets of Samphire and eating them. A lady sitting next to me asked what I was eating. When I told her, she said "I'd no idea it grew like this. We buy it at Borough Market and it costs (some breath-taking amount which I don't now remember) for a few ounces!" I told her she could buy a big bagful for about a pound fifty at the crab shack at Salthouse. She said she would take some home with her. It is only fairly recently we have been able to buy it in our local supermarket.

anniezzz09 Wed 07-Jan-15 10:07:25

I often look at the Guardian cooking supplement on a Saturday and comment to my family 'gosh I could write this'.

Tarted up belly of pork makes me laugh because my poor old widowed mum used to cook this because it was one of the cheapest cuts of meat you could get (jolly tasty though).

Samphire, ie. seaweed and wild garlic are two of the lastest trendy ingredients that get me going. Part of the 'wild gathering' craze that ensures a decimation or worse of wild plants since no one anymore appears to understand not taking everything in sight!

We also have a number of posh 'bangers and mash' restaurants locally which charge an absolute fortune for what used to be a cheap weekday evening meal. No wonder so many people live in debt these days!!!

Riverwalk Wed 07-Jan-15 10:04:46

At the St John Restaurant in Smithfield they have Bone Marrow & Parsley as a starter for £7.80!

Agus Wed 07-Jan-15 10:02:56

Now beginning to feel I may be a bit weird in liking steak tartare and tripe grin

Iam64 Wed 07-Jan-15 09:54:41

My grandpa called tripe 'thripe' he loved it, as did all the grandparents who often came to tea en masse. Tripe would be served along with salad so we children ate a meagre tea of salad, bread and butter as we refused to eat tripe. I did eat it when I thought it was fish, but remember asking innocently one tea time, what kind of fish this is? When I learned it was cows stomach, that was it - no more tripe for me. I buy it for the dogs as a treat these days.

vampirequeen Wed 07-Jan-15 09:11:38

I hate the texture of liver and kidneys but when I was little we ate whatever meat mum put on the plate. However I loved liver gravy. It was so rich.

I have seen a few chefs pushing tripe (the food not their usual verbal rubbish lol). It is the food of my worst nightmares. Even mam only made us eat it once. If the rich want tripe then they're welcome to it grin

loopylou Wed 07-Jan-15 09:02:58

Eurrrgh...........!
Love kidneys but hate preparing them. Haven't seen hearts for sale for years, used to love stuffed ox heart.

FlicketyB Wed 07-Jan-15 08:57:19

NFKDumpling To me. vile. I like kidneys, but ris de veau took the kidney flavour to an extreme where, to my mind, the overwhelming flavour was urine.