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Arts & crafts

Sewing, the craft, fabrics, patterns, problems

(235 Posts)
karmalady Sat 05-Feb-22 07:46:01

I have been sewing since age 6, started on an ancient singer treadle and have sewn now for 68 years. I did have a gap, like many people, clothes were so cheap at one time, it was not worth the sewing effort. I did the clothkits range, the children and I wore clothkits, lovely kits, rugged fabric and everything provided

I went back into sewing properly about 25 years ago, learning a lot of new stuff from craftsy, learnt about lots of new gadgets, many very helpful. Such a change from basic sewing, back and forth, basic zig zag but that was the kind of sewing that tought us very much and gave us a very good basis

karmalady Sun 12-Nov-23 08:32:40

I haven`t got the correct zip for andes, have found it on empress mills, bought 3 different sizes as none was the absolute right length ie 31" and I can always use long zips. I could cut a 32" but in case of messing it up I would use 30" with an inch gap at the bottom

I also needed more woven lightweight interfacing and have ordered G710

I don`t have 7" zips in black either and they were hard to find but ebay seller had them

All in all, haberdashery is expensive

karmalady Sun 12-Nov-23 07:43:30

I am slowly gathering the bits together, to make two coats, one is a maroon parka coat, I have made one years ago but donated it a few months ago as it is now too big on me, it was my all-time favourite coat. Lined and from a 2013 ottobre magazine.

mariawishes.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/parka-1-b.jpg

I finished copying the 17 pattern pieces and have bought the fabric, 3m of minerva core range twill in burgundy and it is beautiful quality. I will be putting the bits I need together on the spare bed and can take my time as this is a coat for spring. Cost is around £40 as I have cotton poplin for lining and a zip from stash

The second coat is a warmer jacket the pattern is itch to stitch andes jacket and the fabric came yesterday,

itch-to-stitch.com/product/andes-jacket-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/?doing_wp_cron=1699774300.5002551078796386718750

I needed fleece backed soft shell with a slight stretch, softshell with a bit of stretch is difficult to find butI got just what I wanted again from minerva 2.2m of core range stretch woven, fleece backed softshell coating, in purple. It is absolutely beautiful and superb quality. The fleece is the same colour as the shell. That cost me £41 and again, I can source cotton lining and a zip from stash.

I will be making that one first. The AO pattern is on its way after being printed at foldline. I can do a straight cut with no alterations apart from sleeve shortening. Looking at the finished measurements, a size14 c cup will give me enough ease, a 12 would be a bit skimpy over my hips

I am definitely looking forward to these makes. I need to gently pre-wash both these fabrics and then I will cut both out, so I have the complete kits ready to sew, depending on my mojo

Tippi Thu 09-Nov-23 16:37:15

When did you have your cataracts removed? I thought surgery was supposed to help you to see. Have you had your eyes tested since your operation? You may need new glasses. Maybe try the Mighty Sight light up magnifier glasses from JML

MerylStreep Thu 09-Nov-23 14:29:10

Midell

Had cataract done and now cannot see to thread sewing machine needle. Tried reading glasses, some magnifiers to no avail. Any suggestions? Better magnifier? Help.

There are lots of gadgets about like these.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=OByhzii01aI

But what a lot of people find easier is to put a small piece of paper behind the needle.

Tippi Thu 09-Nov-23 14:17:26

I sort of learnt to sew in secondary school and I hated it! We had to make a yellow gingham cookery apron; I never finished it. A pyjama case; never finished it. A nightdress; I don't think I even actually started to sew the pieces together
I've been a knitter and crochetier, since I was 5 and sewing just wasn't for me, but, I stopped growing at age 12 and only 4' 6" tall
After I left school and started going out with friends I realised I needed 'grown-up' clothes, so I taught myself to sew my own clothes. I didn't have a sewing machine, so everything was sewn by hand and, do you know what? I loved it and still do
Knitting, crocheting and sewing every stitch by hand is so therapeutic thanks

Midell Wed 08-Nov-23 17:30:29

Had cataract done and now cannot see to thread sewing machine needle. Tried reading glasses, some magnifiers to no avail. Any suggestions? Better magnifier? Help.

karmalady Tue 31-Oct-23 15:41:31

Susie, I have had to stop buying fabrics, my stash is growing again and not an inch of space left. Fabrics from minerva was my last buy, 40% off sweatshirt fabrics and I bought two really nice loopback french terry, enough for tunics and worked out at a bargain £21 each. Cheap at the price considering the pleasure I get from the sewing

My craft club membership of higgs and higgs runs out next week, I am not going to be renewing, it was good while it lasted but I had to `fight` to get them to not auto-renew. At least with minerva it is just a year at a time. Their patterns are overly expensive but I have had some really good bargains in fabric

My sewing mojo is put to one side for now and I have thoroughly cleaned sewing room and machines. I am very happy at myself getting 7 boxes of `kits` ready for the odd moment I might get a sewing urge but from now I am concentrating on being cosy ie spinning and knitting

Croft mill has been going a long time, I started with them ages ago when the fabric was described on a hand written posted newsletter and I was a young mum. I think an AC has taken it on and yes it has become expensive

Susie42 Fri 27-Oct-23 16:36:09

@karmalady - I bought some fabric from Higgs & Higgs and then found that Pound Fabrics were selling the same fabric but cheaper. I have bought from them since and am pleased with the fabric and the service. I’ve also bought from Croft Mill but they have become more expensive than when they had the shop in Foulridge. I’ve also used Empress Mills but the service can be a bit haphazard at times.

karmalady Fri 27-Oct-23 11:08:47

A fabric recommendation, I received 4 lengths this morning and they are awesome prints and wonderful quality. The cotton/jersey is so like fabric used in expensive bought tops and has very good recovery and feel. Silky soft and a very good weight. Same for the french terry, fabulous print and fabric, being washed now.

I am going to make a style arc fenix sweatshirt next, I did a forward shoulder but tbh it was not necessary in the ottoman rib that I have just used for my toile. I have enough fabric left for more cuffs, so have cut another 1" off the sleeves, making them 3" shorter in total. I did the neck in a 12, graded down to 14 for armscye and from there out to 16. I need to do the cuffs again and may well decide to trim the grading from 14 to 16, to just a 14

The new fabrics are from www.jellyfabrics.co.uk/

I also want to explore fabrics from empress mills, I also rate that online shop, their fabrics also seem excellent and they have the best prices on viseline and they sell excellent thread

karmalady Sun 22-Oct-23 06:39:28

Oh yes beechnut, they definitely are better. I replaced a bulb with led on my vintage bernina and it is hugely better. Also they don`t get hot

I finished that nightie, it was a quick sew, a bit tricky as the modal was slippery and heavy. The worst bit was at the ends of the sleeves, joining the two thick bits together on the seam. The overlocker mashed it up so I pre-sewed the second one on the sewing machine, just for a cm. The first join would not have passed the sewing bee but who cares, a bit of hand sewing afterwards helped

I found some older modal binding for this nightie, from the last one I made and decided to make as much binding as I could from the extra newer fabric. I have many metres now, enough for a lifetime of nighties. I cannot see me ever making any other style. For starters there are hardly any to choose from, apart from frilly vintage types. I made a couple of pretty silk nighties from a butterick pattern in the past, suitable for summer but hardly used.

I have just one more winter sewing pack to finish, just darts to mark and pin and that is it, apart from a little more tidying in my sewing room

Beechnut Sat 21-Oct-23 11:35:12

The brighter led bulbs for machines are much better aren’t they? My brother was testing them out and kindly gave me one.

karmalady Sat 21-Oct-23 07:53:39

Cleaning machines, very very important. I did my overlocker and my 380 bernina last night, also changed the needles. I use computer-cleaning ends on my vac cleaner, always important to suck fluff out, not blow in. Cotton wool buds used carefully can help a lot too. One drop of oil on the bobbin case. I sometimes clean and oil the bernina moving parts which hold the needle assembly, I need to unscrew to get in there, not needed as often

My overlocker is a babylock evolve, a supreme workhorse, bought in 2008. I unscrewed the foorplate and got in there as well as the bits in the well, again vac and cotton buds. This machine does not need oiling but cleaning yesterday was a bit more in depth ie laying on its back, unscrewing the base and getting in there too, with the vac. I must say that the fluff was all superficial and inside is clean

Neither machine has ever been serviced and are running very sweetly. Last week I needed to replace the overlocker bulb and got a brighter led

I have a vintage bernina record downstairs in a horn cub plus cabinet, it is on a lifter. A very heavy machine and all solid mechanical, 1970s. That is the machine for my backup and I don`t use it often but it needs to run every so often to make sure that it does not seize up. It sits in the corner of my living room with a cover over and plants on top. They used to use this type in schools as it is so robust

My 380 bernina sits on horn hide-away mark 1

karmalady Sat 21-Oct-23 07:32:05

Pisceslady, lol, I had to curb my spending last week and avoided a craft fair not far away. I am so weak willed wrt my best hobby

I need a long sleeved nightie and have pulled some tencel/modal from my stash, I have already made two in the past with short sleeves, tencel modal is so very nice for sleepwear. Luckily this is a tnt (tried and tested) pattern so all I need do is lengthen the sleeves and get on with it

www.lovenotions.com/product/ladies-tranquil-nightwear-collection

I put my cutting out stuff away last night before realising that I needed this, so I need to set up again this morning

I have been busy, mostly getting the winter sewing packs prepared ie various projects all cut out and boxed, fabric plus pattern in a pack. I did also order some more fabrics and they are now all overlocked, washed and catalogued in my stash records, including where they are stashed. I have clothes like charlie kaftan in mind for next summer, this time in lightweight viscoses

Thankfully I still see spaces and have a whole empty hamper so am definitely getting through stash, albeit 2 steps forward and 1 back

PiscesLady Mon 16-Oct-23 13:26:21

karmalady Thank you, that has given me a guide. I am in awe at your organisation! Which makes me realise the need to be more prepared.
I was at a craft fair last week, plenty of fabric stalls but DH was with me which curtailed my spending somewhat, not that he would have minded really.

Susie42 I have a feeling that would apply to me grin

karmalady Sat 14-Oct-23 19:44:49

I am wanting a really nice, easy to wear dress that I can layer with cardigan and tights for winter

I have the merchant and mills ellis and hattie pattern, I did a toile ages ago and it fits although I did use fabric that was too thick and as it was a toile in unloved fabric, I dumped the dress

I have decided to make the ellis dress with hattie pockets. You get a decent idea by looking at the reviews at the bottom

thefoldline.com/product/the-ellis-hattie/

The sleeves are elbow length and I like that a cardigan will slide easily over the arms

I have been hunting for a bright cheerful babycord print in 21 wale and of good quality. I found a john louden print 145cm wide and have ordered 3m, to allow for shrinkage and the nap. I have never used this seller btw so cannot review the shop

I ordered floral forest green. I have nice cardis and coloured thick tights, so it will be a cheery comfy outfit. 21 wale is a lightweight fabric and ideal for a dress.

www.remnanthousefabric.co.uk/product/floral-baby-cord-john-louden-fabric/

karmalady Sat 14-Oct-23 16:06:48

I`ll be making portsea in a 14, there is a lot of ease, it would need a thin french terry, which I have in stash. Ideal for layering. Might be a project for next week, means that I can use my itch to stitch hepburn tops

karmalady Sat 14-Oct-23 15:54:54

pisces, I buy 1.5 m if making a top with short sleeves and a loose design. I am size 14-16. All the lengths depend on width

2m if a loose shirt top with bishop sleeves

I can make a shift type dress with long sleeves for 2m

To be certain I buy 2.5 to 3 m for a dress. Fabrics all shrink particularly cottons, linens and viscose. Viscose can loose 10 inches if I buy 3m. There are ways of getting the most when cutting out, it involves jiggery pokery and more work but is worth the time. Works like a jig saw

I overlock each end and then give it the roughest wash that I may accidentally use. Never too hot though and may even tumble on delicate, just so I get shrinkage over with. I keep a record and sample in my stash folders and also staple a little note on the actual fabric with an idea for a future make

karmalady Sat 14-Oct-23 15:46:36

style arc
portsea top is half price this weekend

plus this months freebie is still free, even if buying portsea

I just bought simpson and portsea for a total of £5.86 absolute bargain, I bought the pdf multi size with AO

freebies re simpson top or sonny pants

AreWeThereYet Thu 12-Oct-23 14:09:51

karmalady I love to read about your sewing adventures - would you consider showing us photos of some of your 'makes' ? I have no idea what some of them are from your descriptions and end up googling. But sometimes I'm not sure if I am looking at what you are describing 😄

Susie42 Thu 12-Oct-23 12:50:03

However much you buy, you will always be at least a quarter of a metre short for whatever you want to make. I speak from experience.

PiscesLady Wed 11-Oct-23 11:55:19

I want to get back into sewing and build up a stash of fabrics. I have a query:
If you see a fabric you like, can't instantly think of what to make with it, but decide to get it anyway - How many metres would you buy?
Any advice would be appreciated.

karmalady Wed 04-Oct-23 09:24:05

Dashwood fabrics. Minerva

code for 30% off is DASHWOOD40

extra 10% for craft club members

I bought 2 lengths this morning, love dashwood quality

I do make use of sales and have re-filled my stash, some at massively cheaper prices for very good quality, just out of the present season

karmalady Tue 22-Aug-23 06:43:01

Another bit of stash is used up, probably 4m of cream warm-textured cotton twill. I made harlene dungarees a couple of weeks ago and used the rest to make Jennifer Lauren pippi pinafore. I had dithered about pippi for a long time but youtube videos convinced me

JL patterns are beautifully drafted and fit closely, so I changed up to 18, to give me enough room to slip it on and off and I finished it yesterday. A big thumbs up, It is lovely and very useful for autumn/winter. Last month I made her aisling blouse and that convinced me

So much so that I have ordered another length of fabric, to make another. From higgs and higgs, a pink stripe, linen/cotton with a good weight of 220. There is nothing in my large stash that would have been suitable

karmalady Thu 17-Aug-23 13:07:31

Yay, my sewing mojo came back, good and proper. I seem to have unconscious seasons for all my crafts

This time it came from being determined to use stash, I did the declutter and physically got rid of canvas etc, quite a lot tbh. Whatever I have now in stash is wanted and I actually catalogued every item, a scrap of fabric with details in a small ring file. Some goes back to 2004 at least but is pretty good stuff and I had details and price paid on everything, it was all prewashed before the original stashing

The last three weeks, dungarees for me, in a warm cream twill. Dd wanted some so dungarees for her too in a denim with a tiny bit of stretch. I had those fabrics from croft mill, ages ago, denim price was £28 for the 3 metres. Both were toiles, practice pieces for fit etc. I made them well and they are fantastic. Pattern I used was merchant and mills harlene plus the gunmetal fasteners

Today I finished a second dress toile, first one was a poor fit, too small and bust darts pointing far too high. I copied the pattern a size bigger, lowered the complicated bust dart by 1", added 1/2" to allow for a rounded back (age!!) and shortened the length by 3". It has very lovely curved darts in the shoulders and this time I took extra care. Drew them first then sown over.

I used a 3m length of cheap pale pink linen that I bought from ebay a very long time ago. I added good quality jade rib neckband and cuffs to the 3/4 sleeves and I am overwhelmingly happy. It is no longer a toile, it is good enough to wear with tights for autumn onwards and I will soon be making the exact same dress in a fine wool that I have stashed away. I don`t even need to buy rib, I have plenty good quality in my stash

Sidelined my dil in Glasgow has done a beginner/intermediate sewing course, which included fitting

I think this afternoon I will be cutting out the M and M ellsworth shirt. I have a fabric that loooks like double gauze but is single gauze, again very old, very suitable for a toile. It is a nice fabric so I am hoping that the garment fits me well. There are no darts.

I have also catalogued all my patterns, not counted but hundreds I think. Many are pdf but I can buy the AO sized big prints for just a few £. I use business card files, do a little line drawing and sparse details including fabric needed. Eg dresses are all put in one file, makes it very easy to compare

Sidelined Sat 15-Jul-23 09:50:17

Coming late to this lovely thread but I’ll be picking up on some of the good advice. I used to sew but it’s been a long while and it seems so much has changed!

While I’m getting to grips with it again I wonder if anyone has ever done a pattern drafting/cutting course?