Is this a top down sweater? What size?
I’ve knitted the Canadian TinCanKnits Flax top down sweater many times. The pattern is written for worsted weight (DK). I usually do the large size. (I send them to Knit for Peace.)
tincanknits.com/pattern/flax-worsted?g=16
Is yours similar?
The large size has only 10 stitches under the arm, 5 either side of BOR marker.
20 sounds far too many stitches. I would guest at an Aran weight it’s going to add a good 8-10 centimetres under the arm which is a lot so I’m not surprised you have bunching.
You sound like an experienced knitter but are you sure you are reading the pattern correctly? Any chance of a photo of that bit of the pattern just enough not to infringe copyright?
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