Tell me about Annie Sloan...

Forgot to say that the bookcase is a really cheap IKEA melamine thing in beech effect. The paint worked on that surface too so doesn't have to be wood.

Ive done various projects using both Annie Sloan paint and wax and Farrow and Ball which is about the same price but easier to use.
This bookcase was done with Annie Sloan then rollered with a decorative roller then waxed.
Hope the photo posts ok, doesn't always work for me!

I painted an old charity shop dresser with Annie Sloan. Edged in blue, went over with cream, sanded back where the blue was and waxed. I did a small drop leaf table with left over paint. Really easy to use

I up-cycled 3 small pieces of furniture last year. They all were originally that shiny brown wood, and I sanded them down, removing all the veneer then fine sanded to smooth, always in the direction of the grain.
I used Homebase Antique White Matt, 2 coats, new knobs, and they're lovely if I say so myself!

I used Annie Sloan paint on an old chimney pot which was nasty yellow colour and streaked (yes I know that is how they are authentically)It has survived outside all last winter much to my surprise (unwaxed)I am about to do my metal garden table and chairs in a Rustoleum chalk paint as I wanted a particular colour AS dont do
Hope it is a easy and lasting .It is cheaper too.

I find Autentico works best for me, used all three but find it easiest to use and best finish, great colour choice to. Least favourite is Rustoleum. Very addictive be warned, see projects everywhere now. Best was turning old mahogany dresser into smart grey chest with new knobs, love it.

LOL, just get the green stuff from Wickes.

Thanks, pompa. I will copy and paste your advice because I will never remember all that.

As a woodturner, I do a lot of "sanding" (if I was a better turner, I would do less )

The modern abrasive sheets all outperform old style sand or garnet paper. Choose a good sharp grit, like the green sheets sold by Wickes etc. Good paper should cut, not wear down the surface.
Buy a selection of grits form 100 - 240. Use the finest grit that will remove the previous scratches, start with the coarsest and progressively go finer until you get the finish you require. DO NOT sand too fast (give the grit time to cut) or with much pressure, if you have to use any pressure, your abrasive is blunt and should be changed. On flat surfaces always use a sanding block to prevent hollows. On wood, sand with the grain.
If you are finishing natural wood with wax, try wire wool impregnated with wax.

Health and safety -- always use a mask (like what I do !!!!, when MrsP is watching or I am choking)

Bet you never knew there were sandpaper anoraks (all woodturners are)

Yes. It's very gentle. I also use it for sanding over holes in a wall I've had to fill with Tetrion.

I'll check that out. Normal sandpaper just seems to cause scratch marks.

DH gets a similar sanding sheet in a strip from our local plumbing merchants. Much cheaper than Annie Sloan.

Good job it's washable because I'm always finding bit of it in his pockets.

.they're called Annie Sloan sanding pads...

I've saved up lots of old coffee jars etc to do that. Trouble is that you need a container with a wide base so you can give the paint a good stir before using it. There's one shop where I get my paint from that gives me wooden stirrers; I put some paint in one of those plastic soup cartons [making sure it wasn't an onion'y soup as the smell never goes away!], leave the stirrer in it and cling film the top. The varnish is terrible as well in that, once you've tipped some out you can't get all the varnish off the top so you have to run hot water over it to open it again. The same shopkeeper has also given me some little sanding squares that are washable [I think they're made by Annie Sloan] and they give a really good finish.

I've wondered about decanting a whole tin into a plastic container with a screw or snap on lid, tegan. It's impossible to get the lid back on once opened and the paint thickens very quickly if left uncovered.

My table top is in three sections so at least I won't have to varnish the whole thing in one go.

I used the Annie Sloan varnish but I do have other varnishes that seem to work.A problem I have with the paint is that, once I've opened the tin I can't seem to get the top back on as the paint dies on it [also when I decant the paint it dribbles all over the top of the tin]. I tend to just then cover the tin with cling film but that isn't much good if it needs transporting 300 miles back home. I've also bought several brushes for different colours so I don't have to keep washing them...I just cling film them. I've heard that milk paint is very good and would like to try that sometime. They do say that it takes several weeks for the wax to totally harden the paint...something that I hadn't realised. For things like table tops I often just use a foam roller.

I Annie Sloaned a set of four kitchen chairs, which I'd purchased in 1980. I used a duck-egg blue paint, waxed them and renewed the seat fabrics and they looked fab.

Anything in my house is at risk of being Annie Sloan'd. I've just done a chest of drawers in it. It's so easy, and therapeutic too.

I ve never used the wax tho-should do as it absorbs dirt and grease without.

Happy Sloaning.

I've done plant pots, jingl so you should be able to. I use Cuprinol Shades for outside though.

Can you use it outside? My plants table could do with a nice wash of blue paint.

I sent for the Annie Sloan ones, Babs.....Amazon, I think.

I have three round ones - large, medium and small and a craft brush for any fiddly bits. You can use flat brushes as well if you want to.

Like Tegan I use a cloth for waxing. I find you get a better covering but I often finish the whole surface off by giving it a good buff up with the large round brush.

I've also used Rustoleum paint, in fact I did our two winged armchairs in 'Coco'. It gives them a leather-like finish once you've waxed them. Quite a big job though.

Amazing! Thank you for the photos too - am completely inspired. And thank you for the tips on baby wipes and keys!
Which brushes did you get merlotgran? The branded Annie Sloan ones or a different make?
I might check out the colour option on Rustoleum too once I've finished this project. Thank you so much everyone.
Am now eyeing out my dining room table...

Which varnish did you use, Tegan. I did a dining room table and chairs in 'Old Ochre' and waxed the chairs and table legs but didn't have time to finish the table top before we moved so at the moment it's covered with a PVC cloth.

I think varnish will give it better protection.....if I ever get round to it.

...when it comes to waxing I now use a cloth, put some wax onto it [keep the wax near a radiator or somewhere warm so it is soft], rub the cloth on a part of the furniture that won't be seen and then rub the main part with the cloth that has a tiny amount of wax on. I did need to use the waxing brush for the legs on the table, to get into the crevices though. I thought I was Annie Sloan'd out but can't wait to start on something new.

I like Rustoleum and agree about their wax. However, looking at the instructions it doesn't guarantee to cover any surface with no preparation in the way that Annie Sloan paint does. I've had problems with waxing a piece of furniture that I painted in Annie Sloan Duck Egg because the finish was patchy. I've pretty much furnished a whole house with junk shop/cast off furniture using various chalk paints...one coffee table was about to be thrown out but I decided to Annie Sloan it; it was very highly polished and I doubted if the paint would work, but it did. I varnished the top and it has stood up to the grandchildren playing on it.