We went on a conducted tour of historic sites in Turkey a few years ago. Our guide who spoke excellent English seemed very knowledgable, indeed came across as quite erudite, a very well educated person in both the arts and the sciences.
As a tourist guide his knowledge of history had to be good, but as a Turkish citizen, it was clear that he had to self-censor up to a point. Even so, it was clear from the passion with which he spoke that he was immensely proud of Kemal Ataturk who founded the secular state that is modern Turkey.
He pointed out to us that this meant freedom of religion and no legal connection of politics and religion. When we heard the call to prayer in Istanbul, he showed us that some people went to the mosque but most did not.
However, even then, it was clear that Erdogan had a different agenda. He was spending umpteen millions building a guilded palace for himself, bigger than Buckingham Palace but in the vulgar style we now associate with Donald Trump. His wife wore a veil. At that time it was illegal for teachers and civil servants to wear veils but that law has since been rescinded.
When I heard that Theresa May had gone straight from her meeting with Trump to visit Erdogan, I thought it was a joke- but no, she actually did that, as the post-brexit UK would be so desperate for any trade that our values mean nothing.
I think Turkey is pivotal country which matters a great deal tgo the stability of the West and I hope that Erdogan is not allowed to become an outright dictator.