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Western Isles/Hebrides

(85 Posts)
Grannyknot Mon 15-Apr-13 20:45:10

Husband is planning a trip round the islands for our summer hols (apparently the ferry company Calmac offers a good deal). Any 'must sees'? Should we go north to south, or should we start at the bottom? All thoughts, comments, suggestions welcome.

I'm looking forward to it already. smile

Marelli Mon 15-Jul-13 09:26:33

Ah! The Vatersay Boys - now there's a band indeed, Granny23! Hard to describe them grin and they're absolutely great! Your holiday sounds perfect. Did you manage to catch the ice-cream lady for one of her home-made ices as she careered around the island at top speed in her van, with her jingley-jangley music sounding out?

annodomini Mon 15-Jul-13 09:01:23

Born and bred on the Firth of Clyde and have never been to the Outer Hebrides. About time I remedied that, isn't it?

Gorki Mon 15-Jul-13 08:29:18

Granny23 Glad you had such a good time on Barra. Do your grandchildren live there and what is a Feis ? We went a few years ago and didn't take the car so we stayed at a B and B near the harbour. I remember the mists well. I spent some time in the Family History centre which is just up the road and they were so helpful .I discovered a branch of the family who had moved to Barra from North Uist early in the nineteenth century. I love to imagine the lifestyle they might have led.

Granny23 Sun 14-Jul-13 23:01:01

Returned today from the most wonderful week on Barra. Mist curling in from the sea most mornings and weaving round the hills and glens, but burnt off by noon so collected the 3 DGC from their Feis sessions and straight to Vatersay beach with a picnic. One day we had the huge, soft white sand beach and turquoise bay all to ourselves until 16.45 when some of the older children's classes ended; another day, a different beach we were joined by the same 'life-guard' collie dog that we met last year. We went to a raucous Ceilidh with the Vatersay Boys in the school gym, a more sedate one in the castle {by boat} where all the Feis tutors did their party pieces singing, clarsach, piping, drumming, step and highland dancing, accordion, guitar - simply magical. Also went to a 'Kids Dance' which was a riot!!

A very quiet crossing back today - all the Feis tutors napping in various corners - in contrast to the ferry out last Sunday when CalMac had installed extra TVs so that all the passengers (and most of the crew!) could watch the tennis. When Andy won there was absolute uproar, with complete strangers hugging and dancing about. The tennis cum basketball court, just along from our Holiday Cottage was in use from dawn till dusk i.e. 20 hours each day, with a constant stream of enthusiastic youngsters carrying racquets and balls trooping past our door.

With our DGC now 4,5 and 6 they were better able to appreciate all the activities on offer and make up their own games in the garden. Definitely the best family holiday so far. Don't think I can bear to wait another whole year before returning.

annodomini Sun 14-Jul-13 22:54:35

GK envy moon

Marelli Sun 14-Jul-13 22:24:44

It's a wonderful feeling - all that space around you, Grannyknot, isn't it! I remember being on the ferry to Barra one year, and the sea was a like a creamy pale blue. It was hard to see where the sea ended and the sky began! One thing about being so near to the sea is that there are no midges, so I hope when you were by the loch that they didn't torment you! smile

Gorki Sun 14-Jul-13 22:24:23

Give my love to North Uist when you get there. Glad you are having such a good holiday. I know what you mean about freedom.

Grannyknot Sun 14-Jul-13 22:15:56

Very intermittent wi fi, we are island hopping, and planned our own itenary. Now in Stornaway for 2 nights, today's sight seeing was stupendous, at times I wasn't sure what was sea and what was loch and what was heaven (sky) and where was earth. And I now know what machair is. We drove the north part of the island, stopping by a beach for a roadside brew. I feel so free.

Marelli Sat 13-Jul-13 09:17:10

Grannyknot - I can see the views in my mind's eye! Are you Island Hopping? We're going back to Gigha at the end of September (Inner Hebrides) and I'm just longing for it! smile

numberplease Sat 13-Jul-13 01:38:51

Grannyknot, are you on an organised cruise, or doing your own thing? It sounds fantastic!

Gorki Fri 12-Jul-13 21:28:48

Green with envy !envy.Grannyknot Have a lovely time. So glad the weather is good for you. It makes a real difference.

Grannyknot Fri 12-Jul-13 21:19:56

Hi everyone, greetings from the out skirts of Uig in a cosy b & b as we await tomorrow's ferry crossing to Lewis. The weather is gorgeous, the views stupendous, the food delicious. And that's only Mallaig and Skye ticked off the list.

Speak soon! GK. moon

BrianL Tue 28-May-13 17:16:24

I have probably come to this conversation too late and what a great selection of places to visit. I agree with Mallaig and Morar but I was going to suggest The Isle of Iona which has already been mentioned but it is a magical island and one that you will want to return to if you ever go.

Wherever you end up, enjoy your trip and take your waterproofs and sun lotion as well.

Grannyknot Sun 19-May-13 13:25:13

Thanks again everyone. GG we arrive in Stornaway on a Saturday and will make sure we are stocked up for Sunday including with fuel. I found some really good websites, including this one: www.visithebrides.com/ (which I first read as Visit the Brides, because I've got weddings on the brain with 2 children planning weddings! smile

GrannyGear Sun 19-May-13 13:08:18

It sounds great. I'm sure you'll enjoy your trip. Only one caveat: don't go to Stornaway on Sunday. Everything is shut on a Sunday - even the public toilets! At least this is what we found a few years ago (2005) when we went on a cycle tour in that area.

crissy Sat 18-May-13 19:48:29

Hello again Grannyknot, your itinerary sounds good. We found the Lonely Planet Guide to Scotland's Highlands and Islands indispensible, especially as we changed direction. A bit expensive, but well worth it as you can read up on all the little towns and villages as you are driving along.

I read Emotional Geology (or at least about half of it) a year or so ago. I'm with your OH on this, not enough history in it. Was drawn to it having an interest in geology!

Don't know when you are going, but hope the weather is good for you and hope to hear about your adventures.

I might start a thread about the Orkneys when I get round to it, as I really want to go there now, then maybe the Shetlands.

Grannyknot Fri 17-May-13 17:53:05

That should be "you couldn't get to where you wanted to be"...

Grannyknot Fri 17-May-13 17:52:34

Hi Crissy thanks for the catch up, what a pity you could get to where you wanted to be! Oh dear for the gales and storms, we have been watching a documentary on the Hebrides (which we found on BBC Scotland on the "On Demand" telly channel) and of course the first episode we watched showed a frightening storm. I am used to tropical storms but not on an island!

We're all sorted with an itinerary and accommodation, so that's exciting, our first stop is Stornaway from Skye, then drive down to Harris then across by ferry to North Uist, then South Uist and then Barra. Then an adventure (for me, anyway because I find the open sea thrilling in a slightly scary way) as I gather we are doing a long stretch on the ferry from Barra all the way to Oban.

Thank you so much for the tip of the Peter May books, we have really enjoyed the first two, what good background reading for the trip. I will look for the Chessmen via the library. In between I found the Emotional Geology book that I wrote about earlier on in the thread which is set on Lewis and I am enjoying that too (it's a love story so husband rejected it). The trip up to Durness sounds excellent.

crissy Fri 17-May-13 14:18:17

Hello Grannyknot. Sorry to be so long in posting. Unfortunately, as expected we arrived at Ullapool at the start of gales, lots of ferries cancelled, etc. So we hung around Lochinver for a couple of days. (Clachtoll Beach campsite) wild and windy. Weather getting worse so we decided to put plan B into action and headed up north. Up to Durness - what an amazing drive - like being on the moon and very atmospheric. Stayed at cliff top site at Durness with views onto seascape to die for (but so windy). Across to John o'Groats and down east coast and into Trossochs. Then home. Learnt lots about the clearances in museums and clearance trails on way.

We wish our plan B was The Orkneys as it looked as if you could hop across to them from John o'Groats and we learnt afterwards how easy it is there with motorhome and only 40 minute crossing. Time running out and still very blustery though.

I hope you have better luck when you go - there has been lots of interesting tips from other grans. I would be very interested to hear how you get on, as we still look forward to going another time. Hope you are enjoying the books, but I suspect you may have already finished them. I am nearly at the end of the Chessmen (borrowed from library) and another good read.

Flowerofthewest Mon 22-Apr-13 09:03:19

smile

Gorki Fri 19-Apr-13 23:48:58

That sort of diversion I can cope with !

Flowerofthewest Fri 19-Apr-13 22:27:51

Gorki, last year while on Grimsay there was a hole being dug by the side of the road next to it was a DIVERSION sign! I suppose they have to use signs issued somewhere. I absolutely love the islands.

Sorry Susie, I am surprised that the cafe was closed. Strange as it was Easter weekend. I agree stunning views and bays.

Grannyknot Fri 19-Apr-13 19:37:40

Hebrides fans who also have a Kindle - look what I found, a 'A passionate, off-beat love story set on the bleak and beautiful island of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides' £1.99 e-book: www.amazon.co.uk/EMOTIONAL-GEOLOGY-ebook/dp/B0055T357G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1366396498&sr=8-5&keywords=linda+gillard Whoop de doo my reading is sorted.

soop Fri 19-Apr-13 18:25:21

smile smile smile

Marelli Fri 19-Apr-13 17:44:07

soop, if you're still in residence (though I hope you've been able to sell by then) I'd love to pop in - with or without cake! We're going to come off the island for one day, so we can walk the beach at Southend, and have lunch at Muneroy! I'd better make sure you're still there - can't go demanding tea and cake from a stranger! shock