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Western Isles/Hebrides

(85 Posts)
Grannyknot Mon 15-Apr-13 20:45:10

Husband is planning a trip round the islands for our summer hols (apparently the ferry company Calmac offers a good deal). Any 'must sees'? Should we go north to south, or should we start at the bottom? All thoughts, comments, suggestions welcome.

I'm looking forward to it already. smile

Grannyknot Wed 24-Jul-13 16:39:12

We had an interesting but nonetheless successful time in Barra with the accommodation - it was the only place we hadn't booked up ahead and decided to just wing it - only to discover that the place was 'chock-a' because there was a wedding on. So we had 3 nights there in 3 different places smile (1) Dunard Hostel in a private room with a double bed in The Lodge section of it (fewer people than the main hostel - £40), (2) Castlebay Hotel (about £100) and then the (3) Craigard Hotel which was much the same price as the Castlebay (but much nicer room). The stay in the hostel was great, lively and entertaining and comfy despite having to totter to the loo down the passage in the middle of the night at least once. The Craigard Hotel gave us a room with a view and I spent hours sitting on the wide window-ledge taking in the scene.

Gorki Wed 24-Jul-13 14:40:34

The first time we went to the Western Isles we did not know what to expect and because we were coming from "down south" we booked with Hopscotch Holidays and let them arrange it and it was they who put us into Langass Lodge but when we went to Barra we decided to make our own arrangements and booked in to the little B&B near where the ferry comes in as we did not take the car and it was quite near the Family History centre where I wanted to do some research.We had a lovely room with a view of the castle. Next I would like to go to Mull in search of the sea eagles.

Grannyknot Wed 24-Jul-13 14:18:54

Hi Gorki that is interesting re the accommodation, because we also thought the food was overpriced at Langass, but had booked it because it had been recommended by so many people. Funny how a reputation doesn't always match up to the reality. I'm glad we didn't stay there, we had a very comfortable B&B on North Uist.

You never can tell, eh. The ferry from Barra to Oban was late coming back (because of the detour) and we had intended to head straight for Dumfries, but instead drove into this gorgeous little town called Thornhill in Ayrshire, about 15 miles outside of Dumfries and stopped at a B&B/Inn where the people could not have been more welcoming (I had to ring to get someone to reception, the man gave one look at me tousled and clearly tired and simply handed me the key to the room with a big smile, and it was not too much trouble to rustle up a meal at 9:30 p.m. and the room was huge, the place was spotlessly clean and the bed terrifically comfortable. All that for £80 for the night, plus breakfast thrown in.

Gorki Wed 24-Jul-13 13:37:09

Sorry ! Posted twice by mistake

Gorki Wed 24-Jul-13 13:36:29

Sounds lovely Grannyknot. We had a lovely time on Barra too.
On N. Uist we stayed at the Langass Lodge and I have to say we were disappointed. The views were beautiful but our room was tiny with the shower almost inaccessible because the cubicle was so small. The food was vastly overpriced and very mediocre. I think they trade on the fact that it is run by the Laird of the Island and his wife.

Gorki Wed 24-Jul-13 13:35:50

Sounds lovely Grannyknot. We had a lovely time on Barra too.
On N. Uist we stayed at the Langass Lodge and I have to say we were disappointed. The views were beautiful but our room was tiny with the shower almost inaccessible because the cubicle was so small. The food was vastly overpriced and very mediocre. I think they trade on the fact that it is run by the Laird of the Island and his wife.

Grannyknot Tue 23-Jul-13 19:55:27

Highlights were: the friendly people; the food at The Pier in Uig and at The Anchorage in Leverburgh (latter being better than the meal we had at Langass Lodge on North Uist!); driving around the moonscape of South Harris to Huiskenish; the Golden Road; a long walk on Sollas; Luskentyre walk; Barra+++; Vatersay Beach+++; the Vatersay Boys in the pub; the food; Castlebay at night with the reflection of the castle in the mirror-like water; the food; the ferry home left early because as we found out there would be a "slight detour" and a few hundred people were picked up from a musicfest on the Isle of Tiree (what a lovely, happy bunch of [mostly] youngsters streamed on board ...! The Tiree musicfest is folk and ceilidh.

Oh and not forgetting the fab Harris Tweed jacket husband bought for me in a fit of impulsive extravagance (it was my birthday whilst we were away).

smile

Gorki Tue 23-Jul-13 17:28:11

What were the highlights of your holiday Grannyknot ?

Marelli Tue 23-Jul-13 17:23:00

And lots of beautiful memories, too, Grannyknot! smile

Grannyknot Tue 23-Jul-13 16:13:30

Back from holiday with a deep Hebridean tan! sunshine

Never thought I'd be able to say that. smile

Marelli Sun 21-Jul-13 12:29:47

Underlining isn't working confused!

Marelli Sun 21-Jul-13 12:27:05

Oh, I really _ must_ go back to Barra! So many wonderful memories of that place and its people.

Granny23 Sun 21-Jul-13 03:28:10

A week past on Friday we had lunch in the airport café and watched the plane land and take off again (Also directed some American passengers to the Baggage Reclaim - they could not believe it was the lean-to on the outside wall of the airport building). AND, a week past Saturday the Vatersay boys were playing in the pub. Hope you are enjoying it all as much as we did. smile

Grannyknot Sat 20-Jul-13 22:09:41

For the Vatersay Boys fans: we're just sitting in the lounge looking out over Castlebay - after a fantastic day, to be told the Boys are playing in the hotel pub! There goes the early night grin! Marelli our day today sounds like the one you describe, excepting NO mist today at all. And wisewoman, yesterday we watched the plane coming in and landing on the beach. So exciting!

Gorki Wed 17-Jul-13 18:54:32

Lochmaddy aah! envy

Grannyknot Wed 17-Jul-13 18:06:54

I read this in a shop in Lochmaddy today, and hastily copied it, because it says it all:

"The sea is all islands and the land all lochs, that which is not rock is sand, and that which is not mud is bog and that which is not bog is loch, and that which is not loch, is sea".

wisewoman Wed 17-Jul-13 16:55:32

`just reading this thread makes me want to be back on Barra sitting on the glorious white beaches watching the waves. For DH birthday many years ago I booked a holiday which included flying to Barra and landing on the beach. Two days in Barra then ferry to Oban and train (West HIghland Line) back to Glasgow. It was magnificent! We were so lucky with the weather. DH was delighted with his surprise I think Barra is as magical as Iona. So glad GK is having a wonderful time.

Marelli Wed 17-Jul-13 16:38:47

envy Grannyknot!

Grannyknot Wed 17-Jul-13 10:58:45

Marelli, we've only had one encounter with midges, and they don't bite me, going for husband instead smile. So I just make sure I stand next to him. We're off to the Uists today, just waiting for the ferry.

Marelli Tue 16-Jul-13 21:07:36

Granny23 - she's the one! The one and only! And quite, quite mad! grin

Galen Tue 16-Jul-13 20:58:12

envy!!!!!

Galen Tue 16-Jul-13 20:57:50

[nvy]

Grannyknot Tue 16-Jul-13 20:24:11

Now sitting down to scallops with basil mash and ... drat! the menu has been spirited away. wine just brought, overlooking the ocean near Northton on Harris.

Gorki Mon 15-Jul-13 11:25:53

Thanks for the explanation Granny23.What a lovely family holiday. Might think of doing that in a year or two when the twin GC are 8 although it is a bit of a trek for us from the south of England but I would love them to be introduced to their Scottish heritage and the flight to Barra would definitely be an attraction for them. Just thought ,though, they wouldn't have broken up from school.hmm

Granny23 Mon 15-Jul-13 10:18:17

Gorki "Feis" (pronounced "feysh") is the Gaelic word for festival, but refers to a tuition festival of traditional music and culture. The first of the modern feisian took place in Barra 33 years ago and the movement has spread to most of the Isles and some mainland areas too. It is a family event, aiming at youngsters (8 to 18) primarily, but also offering adults and younger children (5 to 7) a chance to participate. The feis offers intensive tuition in small groups with experienced tutors in subjects such as - button key accordion, fiddle, tin-whistle, guitar, piping, song, percussion, ceilidh dancing and step dancing.

We booked our week in Barra before Christmas (it was my Christmas present to the DC and DGC) before the Barra feis dates had been set so we just landed lucky. The DGC live near me in Central Scotland and had no Gaelic but they have a little now! This year the mums and DGC flew in (landing on the beach) while we took our 7 seater car over on the ferry with all our gear.

Marelli I wrote the above post for the express purpose of making you jealous grin I did not meet your ice-cream lady but the others did as she was in attendance with her van at the Fisherman's Mass on the Sunday while we were still on the ferry. The DDs said the ice-cream was de-lish but described the lady as 'quite mad'. I said, 'Excuse me, but she is a friend of a friend of mine!'