Well we've been and we LOVED it. What a beautiful place. We did lots of the things you suggested above (and visited some of the pubs mentioned
. Not many traffic problems to speak of. We stayed at Alnwick, loved the castle, the garden (with its Treehouse restaurant) and Barter Books. Loved the beach at Bamburgh, the Jolly Fisherman Inn at Craster for delicious crab sandwiches, the little pub at Low Newton, Cragside (stunning), Wallington, had fish and chips at Seahouses,visited Holy Island and much, much more. Thank you everyone for all the suggestions and a couple of pms. I rather liked the Angel of the North 