Oh dear, I'm sorry to hear all the bad experiences in Rome.
We visit every Autumn and this year was our 30+ visit. We always stay in the same hotel in the centre and are treated like royalty. The same taxi driver has picked us up for the last twenty years and takes us back to the airport, no hassle at all.
Already our flights are booked for next September.
I do agree, it has become quite dirty and a tad neglected. However, we love going and are hopefully pretty savvy about everything.
My mobility isn't great now , so it's buses for us, instead of walking.
If you are keen, Kitty, choose a quieter time to go, we never go in high season.
PM me, if you would like to know more.
Retiring and living frugally in money from downsizing after years of stress



