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Arts & crafts

Sewing, the craft, fabrics, patterns, problems

(235 Posts)
karmalady Sat 05-Feb-22 07:46:01

I have been sewing since age 6, started on an ancient singer treadle and have sewn now for 68 years. I did have a gap, like many people, clothes were so cheap at one time, it was not worth the sewing effort. I did the clothkits range, the children and I wore clothkits, lovely kits, rugged fabric and everything provided

I went back into sewing properly about 25 years ago, learning a lot of new stuff from craftsy, learnt about lots of new gadgets, many very helpful. Such a change from basic sewing, back and forth, basic zig zag but that was the kind of sewing that tought us very much and gave us a very good basis

karmalady Sun 06-Feb-22 09:17:29

effalump, I used knitting machines in the past too, brother. I made many things on them and had to turn down requests, no time as I had three children. I eventually gave them away to a hospice respite care home, hoped that they would be useful to their patients and helpers

Ooh, I just remembered that I made my wedding dress and four bridesmaids dresses in 1970, on a basic machine with slippery wedding dress fabric. I was only 22, crikey, I don`t know how I did it. I also did my own buffet, held in my widowed mothers house. Cloths on pasting tables. It was very beautiful

I love sewing but also, love knitting, I need the mojo and once I get that, I can stay in my sewing room for hours. It is really nice in there, beautiful old fashioned view of higgeldy old cottage gardens. I make myself do other things, so I move from time to time

I treat myself sometimes, not spending much on other things. I have accumulated lovely machines, last was a bernina record that does about 30 different stitches. I saw one on youtube, saw the mechanical workings and that was that. I just love old mechanical workings. It is a very heavy fully reconditioned vintage machine. I keep that one downstairs, so I can watch a film at the same time. Naturally it is too heavy to lift often, so I bought a horn cub plus cabinet on wheels. It has an airlift and a top cover that makes a very big work top

I succumbed the other day and bought a sewing kit, an easy way to get me back into sewing. Gaberdine, pattern and all the bits to make forest green culottes. I could see them being very useful in spring, with my hm blouses and hm knitted cardigans or short jwoollen umpers layered over longer cotton or stretch jersey viscose tops

Youtube is fantastic for beginners and experienced. I particularly like `lifting pins and needles` she is wonderful and a very good teacher

I have a few favourite fabric suppliers, I stopped getting cheap fabrics long ago. Minerva has a good discount scheme and an endless choice. Guthrie and Ghanie are beyond reproach for reliable fabrics. They also do pattern printing from pdf sellers, using the A0 files

Purplepixie Sun 06-Feb-22 11:21:35

I would love to be able to make clothes properly. My mam and gran could both make beautiful garments and my mam did show me but i am rubbish at it. The interfacing bit has me stumped. I have looked about this area for some classes but there are none available.

karmalady Mon 07-Feb-22 06:24:30

I just want to mention cup sizes, which are oh so important for tops and dresses. Bra cup sizing is NOT pattern cup sizing. The old big 4 patterns were always a standard cup size B and many still are. It is very important to find the cup size on any pattern, otherwise fit will be poor if you are not B. Many sewists have had to do an FBA full bust adjustment, in order to get a pattern to fit well and no wonder there are people who want to sew for themselves but don`t because an FBA can be daunting

I am a C and there are now several pattern designers that do a range of cup sizes and are size inclusive. `Itch to stitch` is a super good designer, she does several sets of cup sizes for any garment she designs for a bust

This is the measurement chart you need for cup sizing

curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/

Another thing I always do with a new pattern: I make a toile, I use cheap fabric from my stash. I often just make the bodice toile but sometimes the whole garment, which then becomes a wearable toile if it fits well and I will wear it around the house

One last thing, for anyone who is thinking about dipping a toe into the water, carefully study the finished measurements. You may find eg that the bust/waist sizing is most crucial or if your hip size is bigger than the pattern hip size, you would just need to grade out over the hip, which is easy. Also have a good read first to find the pattern ease, you can do that by subtracting actual pattern measurement from the finished pattern measurement. Positive ease is looser, negative ease is clingy

I hope this helps, best to always prep before cutting fabric. It is worth it

One last thing, patterns are now expensive so I always trace my pattern. I use swedish paper from patterntrace and I use ziplock bags to store them in.

karmalady Mon 07-Feb-22 06:32:48

just to add to the above. Bust point is very important. Wear a good bra and mark the point on your pattern by holding the pattern against yourself. Going south, with age, means that bust point may need to be placed lower ie a whole dart would need to be moved down, so that the dart tip points to the right place.

Moving a dart is easy

NotTooOld Mon 07-Feb-22 21:49:59

karmalady - you are very knowledgeable. Some good tips there.

During the first lockdown I made a cotton dress from a cotton duvet cover. It had a small flowery pattern so turned out alright and did not look too much like a duvet.

My grandmother and my great-aunt were both court dressmakers and were very good seamstresses, as you would expect. Unfortunately I did not inherit their talents to any great extent. (I'm still looking for that elusive shift dress pattern!)

M0nica Tue 08-Feb-22 13:24:53

I come from a family of formidably good needlewomen from my grandmother, to my DD and probably my DGD, who is shaping up well. Unfortunately I was the one born with 10 left thumbs. Bursting with ideas and creativity, but the results were never up to scratch. I have over the years made clothes and curtains, but I struggle.

Then about 10 years ago DD turned the saying 'if a things worth doing it is worth doing well' completely on its head and said 'if a thing is worth doing it is worth doing badly' meaning if it is worth doing, it is worth doing even if you cannot achieve perfection.

Since then I have made almost entirely soft furnishings , about half a dozen quilts, a number of cushions, I have recovered a large Knole settee, with a bit of help from DD and I have ven helped DGD learn to sew. I work mainly with recycled and vintage fabrics and I am currently making 2 lampshades.

So if anyone here wants to sew but feels they can't, relax and get sewing. It may not be perfct, but if you enjoyed the process and are happy that what you make isn't too obviously nont perfecr - then go for it.

Serendipity22 Tue 08-Feb-22 13:31:28

Made another bag to add to the rest.

My kitchen resembles a sweatshop hahaha.

Productive day.

karmalady Tue 08-Feb-22 14:00:41

nottoold, I made the avid seamstress gathered dress, it is one of the most comfy and flattering dresses. It has a lightly gathered back. Love it and have made it twice. The pattern is in my go-to box as is the blouse that she designed. She has a sheath dress too and I have the day dress pattern ready to work on

thefoldline.com/search-patterns/?main=Women&designer_only#stq=product&stp=1&product-designer-type=indie&product-designer-name=The+Avid+Seamstress

Avid seamstress has the most wonderful patterns with the very best of instructions.

Spot on Monica, sensible words from your dd

Thinking ahead to a hot summer: I made the following caftan twice, linen/viscose and I wore them over and over. Heavenly to wear and easy to make with youtube help for the rectangular waist insert. Closet core

thefoldline.com/product/charlie-caftan/

I do rate the foldline for patterns. I tend to buy pdfs there or direct from the designer eg meghan nielsen and I buy them with a print if for anything big like a dress. MN has some free patterns as do many of the designers, MN has some very nice knickers. They are free for subscribing to her newsletter. MN is very size inclusive with beautiful instructions and masses of help on her site

megannielsen.com/collections/free/free

Serendipity22 Tue 08-Feb-22 19:18:15

Went to a very old pub today for a couple hours, saw this old sewing machine and thought you would be interested. smile

Urmstongran Tue 08-Feb-22 20:11:06

I’ve just read all of this thread. It’s lovely! Such talent and knowledge. I can’t sew for toffee. No matter, I have zero interest in crafts of any kinds. My teacher at secondary school was a bit of a dragon. Mrs. Taylor. I kid you not.

Anyway I just wanted to let you all know how much I’ve enjoyed your posts. Maybe that’s why I enjoy watching The Sewing Bee when it’s on. I didn’t even know (why would I?) that there were such things as digital sewing machines...
?

Happy stitching everyone. ?

karmalady Wed 09-Feb-22 07:39:07

there are some very cheap patterns available too, from russia but written in English

I downloaded top788 from grasser. I have not yet tried it but heard good reports about grasser. Their patterns are available in any bust and height sizes, this suits me as I am only 4`10 with a mature figure. It cost roughly £3.

en-grasser.com/vykrojki/all-patterns/knit-sweater-pattern-788/

It needs to be downloaded and I will print on A4. The sheets need to be sellotaped together and cut out. The patterns are not multi sized like most. Another russian co is lekala, also very cheap

Tilly and the buttons have some books with patterns, they are extremely popular for all levels of sewists. Lots of her makers on youtube. I have all her books. 5 or 6 paper patterns in each book and shop around for around £18

shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/books

I have made 3 billie sweatshirts, 2 coco dresses a lotta dress. Once you find the size that fits, then you can apply that fitting to all her patterns, after checking finished measurements

minerva have a new look sale, £4.37 and I get another 10% off that as I am a craft club member. I tend to buy my expensive fabrics in their sales. No wonder I have a humungous stash

www.minerva.com/posts/1119183

I am hugely fond of merchant and mills patterns, they have a very faithful following. I once saw their factory dress made in a quilting cotton, in a shop window, for over £200. The patterns look nothing, clothes photos look tatty but are not in real life. I have two factory dresses as well as several other items, All made in earthy cottons like linen, quilting cotton, chambray, denim. I started with trapeze, perfect for keeping cool

Just a last add. As we age we often get stooped slightly, when necklines can ride up at the front and can feel a bit uncomfortable. I adjust every neckline these days. I do a forward shoulder, to move the shoulder forward a bit and I also add a bit of length in the top back to allow for the difference in back to waist length. Both these adjustments are drawn on every single one of my patterns and I use a slide method, so that the armcye takes the adjustment without being changed

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJomOnlYmZA

karmalady Wed 09-Feb-22 10:04:05

I have another youtuber that I think I am going to like, she does sewing knitting and spinning. I am watching a video of hers for the first time and have subscribed so I don`t lose her. It is raining and I have a coffee, lovely, relaxing

www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mucrG1FThY&t=975s

Daisydaisydaisy Mon 14-Feb-22 12:53:07

I love sewing however I have pretty much taught Myself by watching You tube videos ..Debbie Shore is great and often adds craft makes from Bags to bunting smile

BlueBalou Mon 14-Feb-22 16:07:15

I love those bags Seredipity22 ?
I haven’t sewn for years but I made all my baby clothes for the DCs and all my DD’s clothes and DS’s dungarees etc.
My mother was an incredible seamstress, she could turn her hand to anything. She made our wedding dresses, bridesmaids dresses, winter coats, dresses etc etc, I didn’t have a shop-bought piece of clothing, other than underwear, until I left home at 18. She also did upholstery, made curtains and cushions and recovered three piece suites and armchairs. Incredibly talented.
Mu learnt from an older friend who was a court seamstress and tailor, whose work was simply breathtaking.
Auntie C also did beading, embroidering court ballgowns and was employed by the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court to repair priceless royal gowns etc.
Unfortunately little of mum’s talent was passed on to me ☹️

AreWeThereYet Mon 14-Feb-22 16:19:12

So if anyone here wants to sew but feels they can't, relax and get sewing. It may not be perfct, but if you enjoyed the process and are happy that what you make isn't too obviously nont perfecr - then go for it

Monica I so agree - I have been making blinds and curtains for years and every time I make some I get butterflies in case they end up lopsided, but they never do. I'm very much a perfectionist and when I finish something every tiny stitch out of place jumps out at me, but no one else ever notices. I'm still battling to learn crochet, I sometimes think I'll be blind before I ever manage to make something. But I love the process of making things and the satisfaction when (just occasionally) they turn out exactly as I want them.

I love looking at all the beautiful things the posters show. It's inspiring for those like me who are trying to get better and to try different things.

Callistemon21 Mon 14-Feb-22 16:22:06

I've got a new sewing machine and I really can't get on with it at all.
It had to go back within guarantee as the needles kept breaking; just used it again (it's out of warranty now) and Bang! another one has broken and I can't find the small broken piece. It's probably gone down into the works but the screwdriver provided with it is too long to be able to unscrew the plate.

Why don't they make them like they did years ago?
It's a Brother and I really dislike it; it's put me off sewing ever again.

Callistemon21 Mon 14-Feb-22 16:24:12

Sorry to be grumpy on a lovely thread (no pun intended!) but I am frustrated.

M0nica Mon 14-Feb-22 17:20:43

Callistemon21 Janome is the way forward. Even this idiot (me) can make things successfully on Janome. DD and DGD both have them.

I bought the simplest model I could find and did a couple of classes on 'Get to know your sewing machine' not Youtube, but classes with a real teacher who could handle a class of 12, each with a different make and model of machine and give personal advice.

Serendipity22 Mon 14-Feb-22 17:51:55

Awww thank you BlueBalou.

I love sewing, its the productivity of it all.

I tried to post some photos of todays product from the sweatshop but it won't do as its meant to ..... grrrrrrrr.

smile

Callistemon21 Mon 14-Feb-22 20:06:18

M0nica

Callistemon21 Janome is the way forward. Even this idiot (me) can make things successfully on Janome. DD and DGD both have them.

I bought the simplest model I could find and did a couple of classes on 'Get to know your sewing machine' not Youtube, but classes with a real teacher who could handle a class of 12, each with a different make and model of machine and give personal advice.

Monica I had previously researched and chosen a straightforward Janome and don't know why I got talked into this Brother machine with quilter (which has never been out of its box!).
I'm not normally easily swayed.

Of course, free lessons were offered but then came Covid.

M0nica Mon 14-Feb-22 21:21:00

I know, we all have our persuadable weaknesses. I bought a soupmaker that way. Fortunately it failed under guarrantee and i simply asked for my money back.

Grandmagrim Mon 14-Feb-22 21:32:52

Callistemon21

I've got a new sewing machine and I really can't get on with it at all.
It had to go back within guarantee as the needles kept breaking; just used it again (it's out of warranty now) and Bang! another one has broken and I can't find the small broken piece. It's probably gone down into the works but the screwdriver provided with it is too long to be able to unscrew the plate.

Why don't they make them like they did years ago?
It's a Brother and I really dislike it; it's put me off sewing ever again.

Sorry to hear you are struggling. I use a 5 pence piece as a screw driver - other coin sizes may work as well-

Callistemon21 Mon 14-Feb-22 23:24:46

Oh, thank you Grandmagrim, I will try that.

Just got fed up with it and put it back in its case today! At least I managed to do the two small jobs which needed doing.

Nannytopsy Tue 15-Feb-22 08:09:42

Clothkits has started again - I made the padded jacket for DGD last Christmas. They only have a small range but it’s a start!
I use my Nan’s 1918 Singer treadle but have recently bought an electric machine for fine fabrics.

Serendipity22 Fri 04-Mar-22 18:48:15

My son asked me if i will make 2 chef's hats for my 2 little granddaughters. I have made them, very, very easy to make.

Beans on toast will never be the same haaaa.
smile