Sewing, the craft, fabrics, patterns, problems

I will finish this evening and it has been a very enjoyable, slightly challenging, sew. I eventually did 1/2 inch seams, pressed them open and top stitched each side. I only have the hood and hems to do

The zip went in like a dream. I bought a jaycotts plastic grey zip in 34". Much better for the fabric weight than a lightweight coil zip. I decided to pre-stitch the edges over before putting the zip on and then I steamed the fold and clapped it. It did get flatter. I also used the humper jumper as I was sewing over hugely thick humps due to the pockets being combined in the front with the zip. It is all very straight and the pockets match perfectly. I did double lines of stitching, each side of the zip and the wooly nylon overlocked seams look very nice

This garment is heavy and what I wanted but many would be better off making this in eg a sherpa fleece. I have just ordered a decent wooden broad coat hanger for it and will be hanging it on a rail, not on a door hook.

Value for money? yes very much so, would be very expensive, if I could buy one

Progress to date:

cut out am, sides of fabric inwards to be as conservative as possible. Bear in mind I am < 5` and there was no length of fabric left at all. All pieces squeezed out. Anyone taller would need more for a long robe. 1/4" SA (difficult)

Very thick fabric, did some experimenting and decided to overlock single edges where possible, overlocking full seams would give me an unwanted ridge. So 1/4" overlocking, woolly nylon in the loopers for a pretty edge and thankful that I did not cut a smaller size as I will overlock first then join with a 1cm seam, maybe. Test first and press to see if flat enough, otherwise 1.5 seam

Walking foot essential for zero fabric slippage. I found my humper jumper, did not need it. Pockets finished and sewn on. 5 layers of thick fabric in the corners. Sewing machine was solid as a rock, did not hesitate

Taylors clapper made a big difference and flattened fabric nicely. Differential tests on overlocker, I went with +1.5, edges neat after clapper use and steam

Machines used, bernina 380, bought 2011 and babylock evolve, bought 2005. Both coping well

The fabric would make a wonderful coat/jacket if lined

yes definitely it would. I will save offcuts Daisyanne, in case I ever get the bag-making urge, noodlehead patterns I believe. Thanks for that

Last spend now, I ordered a roll of 30mm folded printed bias binding, to cover the zip tapes and seams within the robe and also in the petra coat I intend to make. I can make bias but cannot be bothered as I would need a lot

That looks as if it could be good for bag making karmalady. Do you think it would be?

That wool fabric will be dry today and I will cut it this week. It feels lovely now, softer and thicker than when unwashed. It will be perfect for my new cosy dressing gown. I have the zip, grey and 34"

I also checked the pattern, it is in very good condition and was carefully folded. No need for me to trace

Fabric tightened from loose weave and is now 20cm narrower and 40 cm shorter. I don`t think I will get anything else out of it, only my houserobe/dressing gown as I am keeping the hood

That fabric is looking and feeling better as it is drying, the water was making it heavy. I am sure it will be good for my dressing gown/housecoat. I have made the pattern a couple of times and see that it is no longer available, kwik sew 3209

Yikes, I will trace the pattern tissue tomorrow. I need to keep that pattern and it needs to last, it fits really well and is so comfy and easy to make. There is no pattern like it, zip all down the front, big pockets and a hood. I have a wool one at the moment, thinner wool. The previous one was fleece and everything I touched gave me a shock. The present wool one is more spring/autumn weight

The new fabric was fraying so I overlocked before washing. This bit of felting has stabilised the fabric and I think I will get away without overlocking to finish the seams

I was going to pause my sewing but this fabric would take up a lot of space so might as well use it now. Might even get a style arc logan shacket out of it too

4m arrived today, £9.99 a m in the sale. I didn`t know the composition at the time but did a burn test earlier. Definitely wool with a bit of man made. I see now actually 80% wool and 20 nylon. Good

I wanted it for a warm, good quality dressing gown and have already bought the long zip. It will also make something else to keep me warm

I dithered but never get clothes dry cleaned, so I washed it. Too heavy for wool wash. It went on delicate, even though I knew it would get less tlc. In my mind the worst that could happen would be a bit of felting and tightening and that is exactly what happened. What I wanted really. Delicate is above the wash I would normally use, which will be wool wash in future. It is a lovely colour

www.rainbowfabrics.co.uk/collections/aw22/products/blue-navy-herringbone-italian-wool-mix?variant=43277326811328

It is spread over two airers in the kitchen as flat as possible

That is clever whiff.

Does anyone remember the days when we made skirts from old ties and does anyone remember making ties in the tough old days

Sewing room tidy and machine clean starts today. Will be having a gap , for a while and get back to it over the christmas break when it will be slow and steady and a bit more complicated: envigado by itch to stitch, harlene dungarees by merchant and mills and a style arc petra coat in red boiled wool (stashed from germany in 2006) .

https://www.gransnet.com/uploads/talk/202211/medium-646896-img-20221108-wa0001.jpg https://www.gransnet.com/uploads/talk/202211/medium-491845-img-20221108-wa0003.jpg

One of my clever friends at my craft group made this out of old ties and a vase.

There are easier patterns than whistler, I made it because I wanted cuddly cosy tunic with a warm neck and pockets. It has a tricky bit but there is an on site video to help

ooh and I found some barkcloth and am very chuffed. Yes it will go into my stash but it makes a lovely pencil skirt. Almost impossible to source hence me getting some lengths to stash for the future

karmalady

MawtheMerrier

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

love notions is a pattern maker. Whistler is one of their patterns
Billie is a pattern for a sweatshirt ny Tilly and the buttons

Toaster is a sweater pattern by sew house seven

oh dear, I forget . These names are very well known in the sewing community

Thank,you!
I will look them up.

MawtheMerrier

@ Karmalady what are a love notions whistler tunic,, a toaster sweater and a billie sweatshirt. please?

Here's the Love Notions "Whistler" Maw
www.lovenotions.com/product/whistler-pull-hoodie

Nice tunic but has several built in pratfalls for the unwary......🙂

oh yes, whistler is finished apart from hem and I got a megan nielsen jara sweater out of that fabric too. Looks lovely with added red rib, cuffs, hipband and neckband. Today I await maraflex thread from jaycotts. The fabric is too thick to risk sewing on my coverstitch. I like to tidy the neck, hip and cuffs by sewing the seam down.

Normal polyester thread breaks when stretched, tested with a narrow zigzag. Maraflex is wonderful, a gutterman thread with elasticity. Sew on a normal machine with a longer stitch

That sabrina skirt is made from a cloth called barkcloth. It is patterned and bright and cheery and I cannot find any barkcloth in uk now.

Making from scratch is (realatively) easy, altering a made garment is not so easy

I have a gorgeous pencil skirt, my first pencil skirt since my 20s. I made it last year and it was a stunning fit, I was so happy

I put it on today and it is too big now, all the way down. I have now sorted it. The pattern co is forget me not patterns, the skirt is sabrina. This skirt was designed to be curvy and it has two good side seams for altering. Job done. One inch off either side and back to being a beautiful fit. This lifestyle food of mine is definitely working, object was to lose weight

I found that pattern site last year when I was looking for a free belt pattern. They also have a lovely top, free, called the vera knit top. I am going to print that one today, A4 pieces and then I stick these to form the pattern. It is pdf and in layers, so r click to open in adobe acrobat, which will allow access to the layers function eg if I want size 40, then untick all the other sizes. This top has negative ease (close fit) in the bust and skims over the waist with positive ease

MawtheMerrier

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

love notions is a pattern maker. Whistler is one of their patterns
Billie is a pattern for a sweatshirt ny Tilly and the buttons

Toaster is a sweater pattern by sew house seven

oh dear, I forget . These names are very well known in the sewing community

For me, sewing, knitting and weaving is all about enjoying the process, relaxing by concentrating on a single item, handling the materials, appreciating the colours, textures and smells. The finished article (if it ever does get finished) is a bonus - and something I take great pride in. I recently enjoyed knitting a quick bag, using five strands of leftover mixed spare yarn and big needles. My granddaughter loved it - so I made another little one for her.
www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/chunky-multi-strand-knit-bag

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

@ Karmalady what are a love notions whistler tunic,, a toaster sweater and a billie sweatshirt. please?

Monica, I think I would have chucked it too

I bought a very thick and warm fabric in may this year and added it to my stash, it is a pale grey melange with outlines of faces in red all over it. It has a warm white fleece on the back. Croftmill and at the time was £14.50 a m and 150cm wide. 40% cotton plus poly and elastane

I pulled it out yesterday, 2.5m and cut out love notions whistler tunic with shawl collar. I am half way through, a very troublesome pattern construction with some use of the stitch unpicker. I have done the worst part and am having a break, might go for a walk as it has stopped raining. It is going to be a very warm bit of clothing, perfect for me with warm leggings. I am thankful for my robust sewing machine and overlocker, which at times went through 6 layers of very thick seams

I do love it when I create something from my stash. There might be enough left to be able to make eg a toaster sweater or a billie sweatshirt. I may need to do colour blocking and certainly use ribbing for all the bands. I shall see

*Karmalady, thank you for your suggestions, but it isn't the flap side that is the problem it is the side where the poppers are clearly visible when the coat is not done up that are the problem.

I asked DD, who is a very competent needlewoman. She thought about it all week and finlly said that the only possible solution would require me to snip round the poppers and cut the new zip exactly to match and required sewing skills well beyond mine to even attempt, let alone do with any success and even DD said she would hesitate to offer to do it.

Anyway, to cut the story short, the jacket is at least 8 years old and has been well used, so owes me nothing and I have decided to chuck it and ordered a new jacket online this afternoon.

Monica, I would look at replacing the flap in a contrast fabric. The poppers are a problem as it may not be possible to get poppers that fit the existing studs. It would be possible to use velcro circles to join the flap to coat for weather protection

or perhaps unpick the flap and perhaps you can replace the zip with a fully exposed zip. You said up the side of the zip, so perhaps two lengths of contrast, up each side to cover studs. Slighly padded so that the remaining studs, or sockets, cannot be seen

I need advice about replacing a zip in a quilted coat, although the fact it is quilted is not relevant. What is relevant is that like most such coats, as well as the zip, there is an overlapping flap with poppers on it

The zip broke, I bought a new zip, replaced it one side and when I went to take the second zip out, I realised that the rivetted through the fabric poppers, went through the fabric up the side of the zip.

I have racked my brains to find a solution that doesn't require me to cut the zip out round the poppers, work out a way of fitting the new one, there is no space to get sewing foot to run between zip and popper. And, of course, unlike the other side where the popper is hidden in the flap that turns its back to the world, the poppered side is the most visible part when the coat is not zipped up.

I have discussed this with DD, an excellent, creative and inventive sewer and she is stymied. I think the answer is going to be a new coat. D*mn.

Karmalady - just to say how much I have enjoyed reading your posts.

I am reporting back on my rainbow fabric order:

very fast delivery
the 3.5m viscose is a lovely pink print, there is a long print error right down the length so I could not cut anything wide on the fold, dresses are out. It will make two lovely tops, I think one will be a shirt and another a blouse, maybe with bishop sleeves. Good value and very nice fabric

The fleece back terry is good quality, nice and thick and will be perfect for a warm tunic top or a top that does not need much stretch, which is minimal. I think a tunic and will make it very soon, for this winter. No observable fabric faults.

I also bought a cotton jersey and was expecting rubbish thin fabric. 2.6m for £7.50. Brilliant, thick fabric, not a lot of stretch. Will make a winter dress with that or it would make a lovely shacket with enough for a skirt

They are prepped now for pre-washing ie I have overlocked the viscose cut edges. The other two don`t need overlocking. It will be interesting to see how they look and feel after any manufacturing finishes are washed off.

I am very happy with rainbow, proper nice fabrics at very cheap prices.

rainbow fabrics that I ordered

3.5m viscose crepe for £12

fleece back terry 1.5. enough for a sweatshirt £5

and two others. I am not expecting much but will update as to quality. At the very least they will be good for toiles