Sewing, the craft, fabrics, patterns, problems

I have been very happily busy sewing and particularly like the pattern prep, which always involves cutting and adjusting a pattern ready to go. I then put it and the instructions into aA4 zipped folder. Sometimes I only feel like doing the pattern prep, other times only the sewing

My wardrobe is now just about complete, I just need a couple of sweater tunics that I can layer for winter. I have the fabrics and patterns. This is thanks to losing a couple of stone and realising that fitted garments look much better on me. Everything too big is now gone

I am thinking about prepping the ITS lagan coat soon and have decided to leave the expensive boiled wool, from Germany for now, it has already been stashed for over 5 years, until I have trialled a cheaper fabric that I will wear autumn and spring. Gaberdine, ordered now in indigo and will be lined with coral bemberg cupro which was reduced. I think cost will be £58 as I have all the other bits and bobs needed. I bought good quality and the price was good

I had to get rid of a me- made gaberdine coat a few months ago, I loved that coat but it was swimming on me

I am getting ready to wind down re sewing, have made a full wardrobe of clothes for myself and am saving stash for when I lose my next stone in weight.

The one thing that I do want to make is the envigado vest in a fluorescent lime green, the black one is a perfect fit and I have tried it for cycling, excellent bit of kit. That had the hood, which is not needed. Envigado has safe pockets so is very useful and is cut out and ready, it will take a week of slow steady work to make it. Saving that now for a week of poor weather

This next weekend I shall give my overlocker and sewing machine a good vacuum clean and oiling and finish listing all my patterns in my business card folders. Just tying up the loose ends

another lovely pattern from itch to stitch. Special offer and I have bought it. PDF and being a dress (or top) I will get the print next year. Intermediate so a purposeful sew, a project for next spring. I have lots of sewing I could do but not right now as mojo has waned. Next sew will be finishing a shirt, then a purposeful sew to make the envigado again, in fluorescent green, already cut out. The black one that I made is a superb layering piece for me. I need another for cycling

itch-to-stitch.com/product/fisterra-top-dress-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/

I won`t need to buy any fabric, I have stash

I just tried on the helga shirt by tessuti, finished it this week. It is amazing, so happy with it. An intermediate make as it has real photos in instructions. I only used a cotton from the vintage sweetheart, really good quality and the sales are very good, hence my stash from them. This particular cotton is not the firm cotton, it has a bit of drape

I like it so much that I am washing a 3m length of vyella from my stash, been in there 30 years, I kid you not. It is cream and wool/cotton twill weave. For another helga and something else in the future

I also made keith top from style arc. I took 3" off the length as I am short. Cost me £24 using fabric from a minerva sale. A fab easy top, can be made in a couple of hours and light as a feather. I used my walking foot. Very trendy. Would cost a fortune in a designer shop

www.minerva.com/mp/1181072/lady-mcelroy-brushed-sweater-knit-stretch-fabric-grey-ginger

I lost sewjo over summer but am creeping back in, just 30 minutes at a time as I want to slow down. Only really making for wardrobe gaps now

If you like sewing on youtube. Beyond the pink door, she does lots of sewalongs. Love Andrea, everyone does. There is one on acacia knickers with a free downloadable pattern from megan nielsen. My dgd is becoming keen on sewing, I bought a knicker pack from Andrea`s shop and will give it to dgd with the pattern for her to stick and cut. I get the think pink box every month and she adds to it on request for no extra postage, hence the knicker pack

Thank you for the recommendation of beyond the pink door. I will have a look at that. I do love a sewing video. I looked at the link you gave to the sweatshirt fabric it is lovely, would be quite pricey though for a sleeved sweatshirt. Have you washed it yet? I am wondering if it would be a good investment.

yes, I wash everything pre-sewing, in the washing machine and was on the delicate cycle. Pre washing gets rid of any tendency to shrink

I got the fabric from the minerva sale. I often wait for their sales and also save 10% via the craft club hence it being £24 for 1.5 metres. I would not buy it for a sleeved sweatshirt, it is too lightweight. For a cosy sweatshirt, I would use a fleeceback and for a less cosy one, french terry

eg this is the last one I used. I usually calculate 2m for a LS sweatshirt

guthrie-ghani.co.uk/shop/fabric/gridlock-on-ochre-cotton-sweatshirting-fabric

I got 2.5m of a textured cosy cotton sweater knit in my thinkpink box on friday. It came with maraflex thread. I didn`t want to waste my time just pottering in the house so have made a tnt, bondi t shirt with slightly scoop neck and long sleeves. Very nice to make, just overlocker and a bit of topstitching with maraflex, on a longer straight stitch as the thread is for stretch knits. Beautiful, looks like a perfectly hand knit jumper, I made sure to interface neckband and neckline

I also cut out a style arc jara tunic from the same fabric and started sewing that last night, finished the neckband. Being cotton I have made sure to use a stretch interfacing to support the neckband and also a narrow interfacing to support the shoulders and neckline. I have used the stretch interfacing on the hembands too, think that will retain the shape better. Textured stretch cotton could well get floppy

Two good garments from 2.5m, I was pleased but took care not to waste fabric when cutting

Autumn sale at sherwoods fabrics. Beautiful lady Mcelroy fabrics. Code is AUT-20

eg I bought a jersey for a long sleeved top for £8
pink linen chambray enough for dungarees for £30.4

I did buy more tbh

ok, adding to my stash but inflation is not going to go down for a very long time and LadyM fabrics are quality

from the remnants link on there

rainbow fabrics that I ordered

3.5m viscose crepe for £12

fleece back terry 1.5. enough for a sweatshirt £5

and two others. I am not expecting much but will update as to quality. At the very least they will be good for toiles

I am reporting back on my rainbow fabric order:

very fast delivery
the 3.5m viscose is a lovely pink print, there is a long print error right down the length so I could not cut anything wide on the fold, dresses are out. It will make two lovely tops, I think one will be a shirt and another a blouse, maybe with bishop sleeves. Good value and very nice fabric

The fleece back terry is good quality, nice and thick and will be perfect for a warm tunic top or a top that does not need much stretch, which is minimal. I think a tunic and will make it very soon, for this winter. No observable fabric faults.

I also bought a cotton jersey and was expecting rubbish thin fabric. 2.6m for £7.50. Brilliant, thick fabric, not a lot of stretch. Will make a winter dress with that or it would make a lovely shacket with enough for a skirt

They are prepped now for pre-washing ie I have overlocked the viscose cut edges. The other two don`t need overlocking. It will be interesting to see how they look and feel after any manufacturing finishes are washed off.

I am very happy with rainbow, proper nice fabrics at very cheap prices.

Karmalady - just to say how much I have enjoyed reading your posts.

I need advice about replacing a zip in a quilted coat, although the fact it is quilted is not relevant. What is relevant is that like most such coats, as well as the zip, there is an overlapping flap with poppers on it

The zip broke, I bought a new zip, replaced it one side and when I went to take the second zip out, I realised that the rivetted through the fabric poppers, went through the fabric up the side of the zip.

I have racked my brains to find a solution that doesn't require me to cut the zip out round the poppers, work out a way of fitting the new one, there is no space to get sewing foot to run between zip and popper. And, of course, unlike the other side where the popper is hidden in the flap that turns its back to the world, the poppered side is the most visible part when the coat is not zipped up.

I have discussed this with DD, an excellent, creative and inventive sewer and she is stymied. I think the answer is going to be a new coat. D*mn.

Monica, I would look at replacing the flap in a contrast fabric. The poppers are a problem as it may not be possible to get poppers that fit the existing studs. It would be possible to use velcro circles to join the flap to coat for weather protection

or perhaps unpick the flap and perhaps you can replace the zip with a fully exposed zip. You said up the side of the zip, so perhaps two lengths of contrast, up each side to cover studs. Slighly padded so that the remaining studs, or sockets, cannot be seen

*Karmalady, thank you for your suggestions, but it isn't the flap side that is the problem it is the side where the poppers are clearly visible when the coat is not done up that are the problem.

I asked DD, who is a very competent needlewoman. She thought about it all week and finlly said that the only possible solution would require me to snip round the poppers and cut the new zip exactly to match and required sewing skills well beyond mine to even attempt, let alone do with any success and even DD said she would hesitate to offer to do it.

Anyway, to cut the story short, the jacket is at least 8 years old and has been well used, so owes me nothing and I have decided to chuck it and ordered a new jacket online this afternoon.

Monica, I think I would have chucked it too

I bought a very thick and warm fabric in may this year and added it to my stash, it is a pale grey melange with outlines of faces in red all over it. It has a warm white fleece on the back. Croftmill and at the time was £14.50 a m and 150cm wide. 40% cotton plus poly and elastane

I pulled it out yesterday, 2.5m and cut out love notions whistler tunic with shawl collar. I am half way through, a very troublesome pattern construction with some use of the stitch unpicker. I have done the worst part and am having a break, might go for a walk as it has stopped raining. It is going to be a very warm bit of clothing, perfect for me with warm leggings. I am thankful for my robust sewing machine and overlocker, which at times went through 6 layers of very thick seams

I do love it when I create something from my stash. There might be enough left to be able to make eg a toaster sweater or a billie sweatshirt. I may need to do colour blocking and certainly use ribbing for all the bands. I shall see

@ Karmalady what are a love notions whistler tunic,, a toaster sweater and a billie sweatshirt. please?

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

For me, sewing, knitting and weaving is all about enjoying the process, relaxing by concentrating on a single item, handling the materials, appreciating the colours, textures and smells. The finished article (if it ever does get finished) is a bonus - and something I take great pride in. I recently enjoyed knitting a quick bag, using five strands of leftover mixed spare yarn and big needles. My granddaughter loved it - so I made another little one for her.
www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/chunky-multi-strand-knit-bag

MawtheMerrier

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

love notions is a pattern maker. Whistler is one of their patterns
Billie is a pattern for a sweatshirt ny Tilly and the buttons

Toaster is a sweater pattern by sew house seven

oh dear, I forget . These names are very well known in the sewing community

Making from scratch is (realatively) easy, altering a made garment is not so easy

I have a gorgeous pencil skirt, my first pencil skirt since my 20s. I made it last year and it was a stunning fit, I was so happy

I put it on today and it is too big now, all the way down. I have now sorted it. The pattern co is forget me not patterns, the skirt is sabrina. This skirt was designed to be curvy and it has two good side seams for altering. Job done. One inch off either side and back to being a beautiful fit. This lifestyle food of mine is definitely working, object was to lose weight

I found that pattern site last year when I was looking for a free belt pattern. They also have a lovely top, free, called the vera knit top. I am going to print that one today, A4 pieces and then I stick these to form the pattern. It is pdf and in layers, so r click to open in adobe acrobat, which will allow access to the layers function eg if I want size 40, then untick all the other sizes. This top has negative ease (close fit) in the bust and skims over the waist with positive ease

oh yes, whistler is finished apart from hem and I got a megan nielsen jara sweater out of that fabric too. Looks lovely with added red rib, cuffs, hipband and neckband. Today I await maraflex thread from jaycotts. The fabric is too thick to risk sewing on my coverstitch. I like to tidy the neck, hip and cuffs by sewing the seam down.

Normal polyester thread breaks when stretched, tested with a narrow zigzag. Maraflex is wonderful, a gutterman thread with elasticity. Sew on a normal machine with a longer stitch

That sabrina skirt is made from a cloth called barkcloth. It is patterned and bright and cheery and I cannot find any barkcloth in uk now.

MawtheMerrier

@ Karmalady what are a love notions whistler tunic,, a toaster sweater and a billie sweatshirt. please?

Here's the Love Notions "Whistler" Maw
www.lovenotions.com/product/whistler-pull-hoodie

Nice tunic but has several built in pratfalls for the unwary......🙂

karmalady

MawtheMerrier

Still hopeful @ Karmalady

love notions is a pattern maker. Whistler is one of their patterns
Billie is a pattern for a sweatshirt ny Tilly and the buttons

Toaster is a sweater pattern by sew house seven

oh dear, I forget . These names are very well known in the sewing community

Thank,you!
I will look them up.

There are easier patterns than whistler, I made it because I wanted cuddly cosy tunic with a warm neck and pockets. It has a tricky bit but there is an on site video to help

ooh and I found some barkcloth and am very chuffed. Yes it will go into my stash but it makes a lovely pencil skirt. Almost impossible to source hence me getting some lengths to stash for the future