A long and considered response M0nica, which does not entirely contradict OPās original premise. However, statistics being theoretical (ālies, damn lies and statisticsā) do not always reflect real life. TBH there is no denying the power and influence the supermarkets have on what is largely consumed in this country . Farmers markets and specialist shops represent a tiny % of the choice available in reality to the bulk of the population, especially outside the rarefied atmosphere of the more prosperous Home Counties and south of England.
The reasons behind the stranglehold of the supermarket giants are many and have been covered upthread.
As to the historical quality of our food Iām not at all sure 19th century British food was the āenvy of the worldā
During the nineteenth century, much of the food consumed by the working-class family was adulterated by foreign substances, contaminated by chemicals, or befouled by animal and human excrement. (š±š±)
The list of poisonous additives reads like the stock list of some mad and malevolent chemist: strychnine, cocculus inculus (both are hallucinogens) and copperas in rum and beer; sulphate of copper in pickles, bottled fruit, wine, and preserves; lead chromate in mustard and snuff; sulphate of iron in tea and beer; ferric ferrocynanide, lime sulphate, and turmeric in chinese tea; copper carbonate, lead sulphate, bisulphate of mercury, and Venetian lead in sugar confectionery and chocolate; lead in wine and cider; all were extensively used and were accumulative in effect, resulting, over a long period, in chronic gastritis, and, indeed, often fatal food poisoning.
Even that āhealthiestā of farm produce, our cheeses! Red lead gave Gloucester cheese its 'healthy' red hue , flour and arrowroot a rich thickness to cream, and tea leaves were 'dried, dyed, and recycled again.'
As late as 1877 the Local Government Board found that approximately a quarter of the milk it examined contained excessive water, or chalk, and ten per cent of all the butter, over eight per cent of the bread, and 50 per cent of the gin had copper in them to heighten the colour.
Indeed, it seems even luxury items for the relatively well off were hardly any better. The London County Council Medical Officer discovered, for example, the following in samples of ice cream: cocci, bacilli, torulae, cotton fiber, lice, bed bugs, bug's legs, fleas, straw, human hair, and cat and dog hair. Such contaminated ice cream caused diphtheria, scarlet fever, diarrhoea, and enteric fever. "The Privy Council estimated in 1862 that one-fifth of butcher's meat in England and Wales came from animals which were 'considerably diseased' or had died of pleuro-pneumonia, and anthacid or anthracoid diseases.ā
Not the good old days were they?