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Live webchat with gardening expert Phil McCann, today, 1-2pm

(57 Posts)
GeraldineGransnet (GNHQ) Mon 17-Oct-11 11:49:39

We're delighted that Phil McCann, who has been an advisor to Gardeners' Question Time and worked for the Royal Horticultural Association, is coming into GNHQ to answer your gardening queries on Thursday 27 October. So if you're wondering how to freshen up your planting for next year, or how to grow vegetables in very little space, or what do to about blackfly, now is the time to ask: add your questions here.

bagitha Mon 17-Oct-11 20:02:34

Hello Phil,

I'd love to know if it is really possible to eradicate Japanese Knotweed from a garden. We've reduced it drastically in ours over the last five years (it had been left for over twenty years and had spread over a large area) but small shoots keep reappearing and we keep respraying with RoundUp. It never gets higher than about 40cm now whereas it was about 2 metres high when we first came. Are we doing the right thing? Will it eventually die? I had hoped to have a vegetable garden but of course I can't disturb the ground until I know the roots are dead.

Do you know how the experiment with the J.knotweed-controlling insect is coming along?

ronald Tue 18-Oct-11 18:52:54

I can see that in the future there is going to be more and more need of water conservation with climate warming and the cost of water escalating.We should start now with getting into good habits and watering at the right time when the plants need it, not too early and not after they have wilted.What is your best advice to pick this up? or is it just experience. Are there any other conservation suggestions you can make that can be used on the alloment and that will not cost an arm and a leg

toria100 Wed 19-Oct-11 16:29:34

I live in Aberdeenshire and winters can be very cold. I have a polytunnel for the first time this year. I have grown a lot of perrenial flower plants from seed. A lot of them too small to plant out as it was quite late in the season before the tunnel was up and running.
What should I do to ensure that they survive the winter given that last year we were down to -20c at times?

pompa Wed 19-Oct-11 16:56:23

Hello Phil, I have a hardy banana (Musa Basjoo) which is at present in a tub. It has however got too big to move, so must be planted permanently in the garden next spring. How should I over winter it in future, do I cut the leaves off before wrapping it up etc. I live in North East Essex.

grandmabet Thu 20-Oct-11 09:44:46

Hi, I wonder if you can give me some guidance on walnuts. My daughter has just acquired three flourishing trees but we're all at a loss as to know when is the optimum time to pick and how do we know from the outside if they are ready to eat? Some are very light and I wonder if there is anything inside them at all. We were also warned that if we don't get there in time the squirrels will. Would appreciate your advice as there is such a bumper crop.

jabberwocky Fri 21-Oct-11 14:33:30

Hi Phil - I'm new to Gransnet and this is a great opportunity to get some good gardening advice. I've recently moved to a house with a space called a garden that in fact was once an outdoor museum: the ground is compacted by vehicles and people that used to drive and walk over it and there are also areas of rubble and broken concrete, so you see that I've got my work cut out for the next few years! When we moved in some bamboo planted along a wall was 20ft high and I have repeatedly poisoned it with Roundup tree stump liquid, but it's still coming back. Even the parts that seem to have died off have enormous root systems. Please, please can you suggest ways of finally getting rid of it so that the land can be cleard for something less invasive!

grannieannie41 Fri 21-Oct-11 14:52:15

We have a wonderful gunnera and want to prepare it for the winter. What do I do with the seed pods when I cut the leaves and put them on the heart for protection?

Carswell Fri 21-Oct-11 16:38:59

I have had a Blueberry for 4 years now and it is in good shape.
Do I need to prune it at all.
I know how to prune most of my fruit bushes and trees, but
Blueberry is new to me. Many thanks for a reply.

toria100 Tue 25-Oct-11 14:35:21

I have a 10 year old Robinia and a philadelphus. Both have never been pruned and are spindly and bare at the bottom.
The philadephus has very few flowers and the leaves on the Roninia are quite small and not very red.
Should I prune these and when? bearing in mind that I live in Aberdeenshire and winters are very cold.
Would feeding them help?

Anne58 Wed 26-Oct-11 20:54:29

Hello Phil,

I won't be able to "watch" as I will be at work, but I would very much appreciate your advice re my cordyline.

Like many, it suffered badly through last winters snow, and we actually thought it was dead. We were advised to cut it down drastically, which we did. It has now sprouted lots of "baby" plants, not from the stem but coming up through the compost (it is in a very large pot).

Can I take some of these and pot them up to grow on, and give some to others, and if so how should I do it?

I did "lift" a couple earlier in the summer and pot them up, but they didn't seem to have any roots and just died.

I now have a pot with the stem of the old plant, and lots of new plants around it, what should I do?

Thanks in advance!

Carol Thu 27-Oct-11 10:20:19

Phil, I have had loads of strawberries in my raised 1 metre square bed this year and plan to move a few plants shortly, to another raised bed. I have been plagued by small slugs, which have eaten chunks out of the strawberries so a lot of been wasted. Can you advise how much I can wash off and clip away from the plants to avoid taking slugs and their eggs into the new bed, please? And is there any particular raised bed that will make it less likely for slugs to get in there? (I have seen some beehive shaped ones that look good, but don't want to spend over £100 to find the slugs are still enjoying my strawberies). Thank you.

ouimerci Thu 27-Oct-11 11:28:24

I grew a good crop of tomatoes this year in a container, but they had tough skins and tasted a bit bland. I could buy better ones in the farmers' market. What is the best variety to combine decent cropping with good flavour which you can grow in a container?

Thanks!

ameliaanne Thu 27-Oct-11 11:49:16

I have an indoor chilli plant which has produced lots of chillies this year. However, it has slowed down in the past two months and the chillies haven't matured. There are also tiny flies which sometimes appear when the plant is touched. Do I have a pest problem and is it the slow season now? Your advice would be appreciated. Many thanks.

whyte Thu 27-Oct-11 12:22:51

Our small front garden wall has been damaged by the roots of cherry trees. What quick growing plant can I buy that will cover it and disguise the damage?

eggmayo Thu 27-Oct-11 12:37:06

I don't really have any 'light in a window' space for me to grow indoor plants, though I'd really like to. Are there any that can either live outside during the cold winter or can deal with not having any light? I like the idea of chillies, as above, but not if this really is the slow season as ameliaanne suggested.
Thanks Phil

GeraldineGransnet (GNHQ) Thu 27-Oct-11 13:02:53

We're absolutely delighted to have Phil McCann, gardener extraordinaire, with us for a live webchat now - so ask away with your pots and pruning and plant questions.

PhilMcCann Thu 27-Oct-11 13:07:22

GeraldineGransnet

We're absolutely delighted to have Phil McCann, gardener extraordinaire, with us for a live webchat now - so ask away with your pots and pruning and plant questions.

Many many thanks for having me - and it's a good day to be inside chatting about gardening. The rain is tipping down here in the Midlands. I'm a bit worried about the tag 'extraordinaire' but deep breath and here goes.....

octogran Thu 27-Oct-11 13:11:48

Hi Phil, welcome to Gransnet. I have a garden with a lot of Mediterranean-type plants - thyme, santolina, lavenders, hebes, myrtle, with more perennials for temporary colour. The only trouble is that after July there's not much colour apart from a few bits of verbena bonariensis. Can you suggest any plants that would go with the above and provide (preferably long-lasting) colour through August and September?

PhilMcCann Thu 27-Oct-11 13:11:49

bagitha

Hello Phil,

I'd love to know if it is really possible to eradicate Japanese Knotweed from a garden. We've reduced it drastically in ours over the last five years (it had been left for over twenty years and had spread over a large area) but small shoots keep reappearing and we keep respraying with RoundUp. It never gets higher than about 40cm now whereas it was about 2 metres high when we first came. Are we doing the right thing? Will it eventually die? I had hoped to have a vegetable garden but of course I can't disturb the ground until I know the roots are dead.

Do you know how the experiment with the J.knotweed-controlling insect is coming along?

Crikey – nothing like opening the chat with a really big problem! Japanese knotweed was introduced to the UK in the 19th century – it since escaped and is now a real problem for some gardeners (and lots of local authorities where if it was treated, it would cost us £1.5 bn!) So we are talking big here.
Cutting it back is a good idea to continually reduce the plants vigour. Spraying with a herbicide is also good – but this is best done in late summer. Spraying in spring or now isn’t as good at killing the plant as you want to blast it when it is in full, rampant growth. You could try and dig the plant out but to be realistic, this will only reduce the vigour of the plant and not get rid of it (unless you can dig down 5 metres and ensure you get rid of every scrap of root ( or rhizome) )
Now, the question of the release of natural predators of Japanese Knotweed. Pysillid bugs will kill the plant , and do so in Asia, but they don’t naturally occur in the UK. The government has issued licenses for experimental trials of such bugs and obviously results will be monitored and assessed – but we are a few years from being able to buy such bugs at garden centre for use in our own gardens. It’s a tricky one – what if the bugs run wild and cause upsets in the environment? They probably won’t but they might! Or by releasing the bugs are we merely helping and speeding up evolution? It’s a big debate. So, for now, spray, kill off, don’t compost the remains, be careful, cut anything else back and keep on top of the problem – you will persuade the weed to move on – one day! And did you see the bit on BBC The One Show last night - you are sadly not alone. Good luck. Right, something less scary...

flighty Thu 27-Oct-11 13:17:27

I had three arbutus trees in large pots against a wall but they have succumbed to disease. I don't know if this was the way I kept them; I was told that lots of arbutus trees had died in Britain. Anyway, I am looking for something of similar size that would give an architectural shape against a grey wall but that isn't a succulent or too exotic-looking. Any suggestions?!

PhilMcCann Thu 27-Oct-11 13:20:10

ronald

I can see that in the future there is going to be more and more need of water conservation with climate warming and the cost of water escalating.We should start now with getting into good habits and watering at the right time when the plants need it, not too early and not after they have wilted.What is your best advice to pick this up? or is it just experience. Are there any other conservation suggestions you can make that can be used on the alloment and that will not cost an arm and a leg

...and now global warming? I need another custard cream ( or three!) Seriously, it might be hard to read if you are currently in the south west, Wales or Northern Ireland, but you are right Ronald, lack of water is becoming a problem. We gardeners get a bad press when golf courses and car washes waste thousands of gallons, but being a responsible bunch, we can do lots to make the most of water. Simple things like planting water loving plants, such as cabbages and caulis, in small depressions in the soil ensures that any water that runs off stays in the root zone; water, as you say, when a plant needs it ( wilting is usually a plant screaming for water but not the last straw) and watering first thing in the morning is best. It gives the plant time to take up the water before the sun gains strength ( watering at night can lead to water hanging about causing disease problems); use grey water – that’s water recycled from washing up bowls and baths ( dishwater and machine washer water is usually too high in strong detergents for plant use; water butts are a must – a bit of cheap guttering running from all sheds and garages will reap gallons of ‘free’ water; there’s even a new solar panel pump made for water butts I saw at a trade show last month that pumps water from the butt to plants without the need for electricity – good for your allotment; I also like using mulches ( garden compost, manure) but only on soil that is already moist – mulching on dry soil keeps water out of the soil and root zones; and only water plants that need it. Away from your lottie only water lants that actually need it. Old shrubs and established trees can be left alone, and to be honest, so can your lawn. They always turn green once it rains again. But do water newly planted shrubs and trees and of course, your seedlings ( with seedlings use tap water than has stood around in a watering can to warm up slightly to avoid chilling) Be sensible and we gardeners can lead the way - I think we will have to in the furture. Right, give me a minute to warm up my tea and onto the next.

whizzgran Thu 27-Oct-11 13:21:07

Can you suggest some plants for spring colour and preferably scent in a North-facing, slightly damp area of garden underneath some acers? Thanks!

flopsybunny Thu 27-Oct-11 13:27:10

I grow tomatoes, lettuces of various kinds and runner beans in pots - all very successfully until the slugs get them, when I am left with shredded leaves, slimy trails and, this year, not a single bean. I don't really want netting etc because these pots are partly ornamental. Is there any slug/snail preparation I can use that is safe for human health? I wash the veg, obviously, but it still makes me uncomfortable putting chemicals on it. If I use the blue pellets I see them on the earth and they make me feel slightly sick - I don't much fancy eating my produce afterwards.

PhilMcCann Thu 27-Oct-11 13:27:56

Carswell

I have had a Blueberry for 4 years now and it is in good shape.
Do I need to prune it at all.
I know how to prune most of my fruit bushes and trees, but
Blueberry is new to me. Many thanks for a reply.

Blueberries are one of my favourites ( especially when incorporated into muffins!) and are surprisingly easy to grow – acidic soil or compost is the key. Now for pruning. Blueberries produce fruit on last years growth. That’s the main thing to remember when tempted by the secateurs. So, for the first two or three years leave the plant alone to grow up, establish a good, solid framework of branches and to acclimatize to your condition ( acidic soil is a must though) Then, after these three years, get out you sharp, clean secateurs at this time of year and get snipping. First of all take out any dead or diseased branches. Then look for the oldest branches or canes and cut out two or three of these. This will increase the production of new branches for fruit in future years, and removes some of the older, tired wood but leaves some branches to produce fruit next year. Then snip off any branches that slump on the ground as these merely act as springboards for slugs and snails, and where any fruit is spoilt by rain splashes. Finally, snip off any whippy, twiggy growths at the ends of branches – it just tidies up the plant a treat. And if you can’t do it now or you are still enjoying the spectacular autumn colour show the foliage gives, wait until next month, or any time when the plant is dormant over winter. Your plant is four years old and now ready for a bit of a haircut! Hope that helps.