Gransnet forums

Travel

Western Isles/Hebrides

(85 Posts)
Grannyknot Mon 15-Apr-13 20:45:10

Husband is planning a trip round the islands for our summer hols (apparently the ferry company Calmac offers a good deal). Any 'must sees'? Should we go north to south, or should we start at the bottom? All thoughts, comments, suggestions welcome.

I'm looking forward to it already. smile

Marelli Sat 13-Jul-13 09:17:10

Grannyknot - I can see the views in my mind's eye! Are you Island Hopping? We're going back to Gigha at the end of September (Inner Hebrides) and I'm just longing for it! smile

Grannyknot Sun 14-Jul-13 22:15:56

Very intermittent wi fi, we are island hopping, and planned our own itenary. Now in Stornaway for 2 nights, today's sight seeing was stupendous, at times I wasn't sure what was sea and what was loch and what was heaven (sky) and where was earth. And I now know what machair is. We drove the north part of the island, stopping by a beach for a roadside brew. I feel so free.

Gorki Sun 14-Jul-13 22:24:23

Give my love to North Uist when you get there. Glad you are having such a good holiday. I know what you mean about freedom.

Marelli Sun 14-Jul-13 22:24:44

It's a wonderful feeling - all that space around you, Grannyknot, isn't it! I remember being on the ferry to Barra one year, and the sea was a like a creamy pale blue. It was hard to see where the sea ended and the sky began! One thing about being so near to the sea is that there are no midges, so I hope when you were by the loch that they didn't torment you! smile

annodomini Sun 14-Jul-13 22:54:35

GK envy moon

Granny23 Sun 14-Jul-13 23:01:01

Returned today from the most wonderful week on Barra. Mist curling in from the sea most mornings and weaving round the hills and glens, but burnt off by noon so collected the 3 DGC from their Feis sessions and straight to Vatersay beach with a picnic. One day we had the huge, soft white sand beach and turquoise bay all to ourselves until 16.45 when some of the older children's classes ended; another day, a different beach we were joined by the same 'life-guard' collie dog that we met last year. We went to a raucous Ceilidh with the Vatersay Boys in the school gym, a more sedate one in the castle {by boat} where all the Feis tutors did their party pieces singing, clarsach, piping, drumming, step and highland dancing, accordion, guitar - simply magical. Also went to a 'Kids Dance' which was a riot!!

A very quiet crossing back today - all the Feis tutors napping in various corners - in contrast to the ferry out last Sunday when CalMac had installed extra TVs so that all the passengers (and most of the crew!) could watch the tennis. When Andy won there was absolute uproar, with complete strangers hugging and dancing about. The tennis cum basketball court, just along from our Holiday Cottage was in use from dawn till dusk i.e. 20 hours each day, with a constant stream of enthusiastic youngsters carrying racquets and balls trooping past our door.

With our DGC now 4,5 and 6 they were better able to appreciate all the activities on offer and make up their own games in the garden. Definitely the best family holiday so far. Don't think I can bear to wait another whole year before returning.

Gorki Mon 15-Jul-13 08:29:18

Granny23 Glad you had such a good time on Barra. Do your grandchildren live there and what is a Feis ? We went a few years ago and didn't take the car so we stayed at a B and B near the harbour. I remember the mists well. I spent some time in the Family History centre which is just up the road and they were so helpful .I discovered a branch of the family who had moved to Barra from North Uist early in the nineteenth century. I love to imagine the lifestyle they might have led.

annodomini Mon 15-Jul-13 09:01:23

Born and bred on the Firth of Clyde and have never been to the Outer Hebrides. About time I remedied that, isn't it?

Marelli Mon 15-Jul-13 09:26:33

Ah! The Vatersay Boys - now there's a band indeed, Granny23! Hard to describe them grin and they're absolutely great! Your holiday sounds perfect. Did you manage to catch the ice-cream lady for one of her home-made ices as she careered around the island at top speed in her van, with her jingley-jangley music sounding out?

Granny23 Mon 15-Jul-13 10:18:17

Gorki "Feis" (pronounced "feysh") is the Gaelic word for festival, but refers to a tuition festival of traditional music and culture. The first of the modern feisian took place in Barra 33 years ago and the movement has spread to most of the Isles and some mainland areas too. It is a family event, aiming at youngsters (8 to 18) primarily, but also offering adults and younger children (5 to 7) a chance to participate. The feis offers intensive tuition in small groups with experienced tutors in subjects such as - button key accordion, fiddle, tin-whistle, guitar, piping, song, percussion, ceilidh dancing and step dancing.

We booked our week in Barra before Christmas (it was my Christmas present to the DC and DGC) before the Barra feis dates had been set so we just landed lucky. The DGC live near me in Central Scotland and had no Gaelic but they have a little now! This year the mums and DGC flew in (landing on the beach) while we took our 7 seater car over on the ferry with all our gear.

Marelli I wrote the above post for the express purpose of making you jealous grin I did not meet your ice-cream lady but the others did as she was in attendance with her van at the Fisherman's Mass on the Sunday while we were still on the ferry. The DDs said the ice-cream was de-lish but described the lady as 'quite mad'. I said, 'Excuse me, but she is a friend of a friend of mine!'

Gorki Mon 15-Jul-13 11:25:53

Thanks for the explanation Granny23.What a lovely family holiday. Might think of doing that in a year or two when the twin GC are 8 although it is a bit of a trek for us from the south of England but I would love them to be introduced to their Scottish heritage and the flight to Barra would definitely be an attraction for them. Just thought ,though, they wouldn't have broken up from school.hmm

Grannyknot Tue 16-Jul-13 20:24:11

Now sitting down to scallops with basil mash and ... drat! the menu has been spirited away. wine just brought, overlooking the ocean near Northton on Harris.

Galen Tue 16-Jul-13 20:57:50

[nvy]

Galen Tue 16-Jul-13 20:58:12

envy!!!!!

Marelli Tue 16-Jul-13 21:07:36

Granny23 - she's the one! The one and only! And quite, quite mad! grin

Grannyknot Wed 17-Jul-13 10:58:45

Marelli, we've only had one encounter with midges, and they don't bite me, going for husband instead smile. So I just make sure I stand next to him. We're off to the Uists today, just waiting for the ferry.

Marelli Wed 17-Jul-13 16:38:47

envy Grannyknot!

wisewoman Wed 17-Jul-13 16:55:32

`just reading this thread makes me want to be back on Barra sitting on the glorious white beaches watching the waves. For DH birthday many years ago I booked a holiday which included flying to Barra and landing on the beach. Two days in Barra then ferry to Oban and train (West HIghland Line) back to Glasgow. It was magnificent! We were so lucky with the weather. DH was delighted with his surprise I think Barra is as magical as Iona. So glad GK is having a wonderful time.

Grannyknot Wed 17-Jul-13 18:06:54

I read this in a shop in Lochmaddy today, and hastily copied it, because it says it all:

"The sea is all islands and the land all lochs, that which is not rock is sand, and that which is not mud is bog and that which is not bog is loch, and that which is not loch, is sea".

Gorki Wed 17-Jul-13 18:54:32

Lochmaddy aah! envy

Grannyknot Sat 20-Jul-13 22:09:41

For the Vatersay Boys fans: we're just sitting in the lounge looking out over Castlebay - after a fantastic day, to be told the Boys are playing in the hotel pub! There goes the early night grin! Marelli our day today sounds like the one you describe, excepting NO mist today at all. And wisewoman, yesterday we watched the plane coming in and landing on the beach. So exciting!

Granny23 Sun 21-Jul-13 03:28:10

A week past on Friday we had lunch in the airport café and watched the plane land and take off again (Also directed some American passengers to the Baggage Reclaim - they could not believe it was the lean-to on the outside wall of the airport building). AND, a week past Saturday the Vatersay boys were playing in the pub. Hope you are enjoying it all as much as we did. smile

Marelli Sun 21-Jul-13 12:27:05

Oh, I really _ must_ go back to Barra! So many wonderful memories of that place and its people.

Marelli Sun 21-Jul-13 12:29:47

Underlining isn't working confused!

Grannyknot Tue 23-Jul-13 16:13:30

Back from holiday with a deep Hebridean tan! sunshine

Never thought I'd be able to say that. smile