Any experienced dressmakers here?

Haven't done any for years but if you are making something special with very expensive fabric perhaps you could make a prototype out of very cheap stuff or an old sheet, to get the fit right first? I've never done that but have heard about it. I would look up my old vogue sewing book but everything is packed away in boxes at the moment. Perhaps someone else out there has more experience?

Don't start digging around in boxes, rosequartz ... just wanted to mull over the problems of self-fitting and the problem of odd sizing. I'm a standard M&S size (ie I can buy off the peg and it all fits) but paper patterns are another thing altogether! Even my own measurements don't tally to the measurements of ready-made - I'm baffled and wondered how others coped.

I used to sew a lot both for DC and myself, but gave up a few years ago when a couple of things I made for me looked hideous on (probably because I had put on weight I think). But tacking and fitting as you go is always a good thing.

It's ages since I made a dress, but I used to get out a dress I knew fitted me perfectly and check measurements of the pieces against that, noting where darts differ and ensuring that the body was the same length so the waist sat in the same place, the shoulders sat neatly, and so on.

I'm not doing so much now, but most patterns these days are multi-sized and if you can get one that spans your size you can cut along different size lines for eg bust/hips. After cutting out I tack, try on and pin where I need it tighter. I tried the old sheet version, called a 'toile', when making bridesmaids' dresses for my son's wedding but didn't find it a great deal of help! I do find that pattern sizes are more generous than shop sizes - even M&S. The measurements on the envelope allow for quite a lot of 'ease'.

Any tips for fitting on yourself?

A long mirror and some acrobatic twisting! Trial and error with the tacking. What are you making?

I always have to fit on myself since I lost my mother. DBH would be more of a hindrance than help!

I have the same problem with paper patterns as i am big up top, short from chest to waist and straight down from waist. I would like to make some shift dresses for the summer and have decided to visit the local pro dressmaker and ask her to make me a paper pattern custom fitted for my odd shape

I follow a sewing blog (Gertie) and she always advocates making a trial "muslin" garment from the pattern, before cutting into your fabric. You can adjust this to fit then transfer to the actual garment.
I've never actually done this as I find most patterns fit me ok. Too lazy as well!
A tailor's dummy made to your shape would help too.

When I made my DD's ( 1st wedding) dress, I had to combine 2 different patterns, top & bottom,it was a bl...dy nightmare ! I made a toile in calico, & had to make the bodice slightly smaller than the pattern. I think, if I remember correctly, you draw a line from centre shoulder to centre waist to make it bigger or smaller, spreading the pattern out, with inset of paper for bigger, & folding it in for smaller. Hope this helps mollie.

I'm just getting back into sewing (new machine at the weekend) so am intending on making EVERYTHING! I'm apple-shaped so life isn't simple and as dresses are usually too big in the bust if they fit everywhere else I hope to make things that fit ME! I was hoping to learn how to adapt (or even make my own ??? OMG???) patterns but finding a good starting point seems odd. Owning up, I'm a size 20 or 22 if it's a bit skimpy but my measurements at the weekend suggested I use a size 30 pattern for a simple skirt! Do tape measures shrink??? Finding someone to make a good basic pattern sounds like a good idea... I thought of a bodyform/dummy and I see that in the US they make their own but they tend to look like those neolithic female models and I'd end up having the screaming ab dabs if I had to admit I looked like that!! Lol! I've been looking at Gertie too and am also too lazy.

See if your local evening classes have a pattern making / dressmaking course mollie, then you can do it yourself.

I found instructions for making a bodyform of your own body. You'd need a close friend to help wrap you in duct tape over an old t-shirt then cut you out! You'd probably get a better fit than on the 'relatively!' inexpensive body form I bought, but I'm not sure the process appeals to me.
A muslin is another name for a toile, I believe, but don't make the mistake of using muslin fabric to make it - that wouldn't behave the same as a dress or skirt fabric.
I don't understand why there should be such a difference in sizes between clothes you buy and the pattern.

The last time I used a pattern I felt that they were now made of very inferior paper and tore extremely easily. If you found a good basic pattern it would perhaps be a good idea to make a more robust one in lining paper. I bought myself a new pair of cutting out shears when I was in USA and they are slightly different to use but you do not have one half of the scissors and part of your hand under the fabric you are cutting - I have found them much better. I also discovered that many Americans are using large wheels for cutting out - bigger versions of the quilting/ craft ones.

I used to use sheets of newspaper when I was young, loosely tacked together to at least make sure that bust measurements and shoulder to waist were ok, as I have short body and long legs. Then I progressed to old sheets, now I have a dummy, which is wonderful.

a tailor's dummy must make life so much easier... not sure I'd trust anyone I know to wrap me up in duct tape...lol!

Know what you mean mollie

Grannyisland, do you love the Katie Morag stories? Is there a grannymainland in your family too?

I am going to have a go at the taping up body pattern making, just need to choose my most sensible girlfriend to help. Not asking OH, he might think it is a special sort of game which might lead to allsorts!

Good luck to you storynanny! We will wait to see evidence of the results please...

Disastrous afternoon - spent a couple of hours cutting out and stitching a tunic top with pin tucks and created a disaster! Ho hum... back to the drawing board (only good thing is that I didn't waste any expensive fabric, phew!)

That tip about making a trial with cheap fabric is very good. If you are making jacket then I always make the lining first, cut it out generously and try to make it fit. Then when the jacket is finished the lining is ready to be fitted inside.
A few tips about fit.
A blouse or jacket must fit at the neck and shoulders then it will hang properly. A skirt must fit at the waist, as must trousers. If that fit is wrong you'll never get it right.
Another tip. If the whole thing appears awful, doesn't fit or doesn't flatter you then bin it! Don't waste time trying to make it look better. it won't work.
When you make your own clothes you save money ( or used to) and you can afford to throw failures away.
The best thing about being able to sew is altering clothes bought in sales. I love linen things and sometimes buy anything in real linen with posh labels in them, especially in outsize sizes, then I put it in the very hot wash and shrink it and then take it apart and make it up it up to my measurements.
This way very often the pockets have been done already!
The most money is saved by making Jackets, trousers are about the same price.
Good luck

Watching sewing bee at the moment, I really really want an overlocker machine.

Great tip about the linen, Margaret. I'm watching Sewing Bee, too. I know what I'm doing with the band on my jersey skirt now. That was timely.