I don't know if you're still reading here, tynsall, but congrats on your new GB! And kudos for making that plane trip!
So sorry the visit wasn't all you hoped! So difficult, I think, to have expectations dashed. (((Hugs!)))
DIL does sound like kind of an anxious person overall. Expensive worktop or not, is she never going to use her new kitchen in a normal way? But it IS new, LOL, as is the house. In time, she'll very likely calm down about it.
But I agree with those who say the issues with baby probably aren't so much about anxiety as Attachment Parenting. I don't know too much about AP. However, as I understand it, strictly AP parents keep their new babies close to them as much as possible and don't hand them to others for "cuddles." Even as baby gets older, they watch for "cues" (or something like that) from baby that say baby wants to be held by someone else before they let that person hold baby. If a parent believes deeply in AP, I don't think they relax these "rules" for anyone, regardless of who the person is, how hard a trip they made or how much they want to hold baby. It may seem "selfish," "unfair," or "overprotective" or even "silly" to you and me, but I imagine these parents think what they're doing is "right." I don't think they mean to hurt anybody, just trying to do what they believe is best for their child.
Anyhow, that may explain DIL's behavior concerning your GB. And it suggests it's a really good sign that she felt comfortable letting you hold baby's hand, even though that may not seem "enough" to you. I hope these thoughts help.
Also, I'm glad you didn't say anything to DIL. IF this is about AP, she might have seen it as challenging her parenting style and beliefs. I'm sure she appreciates the fact that you respected her wishes.
It doesn't look as if DS is on the same page though. Either he doesn't believe in AP (if that's what this is about) or he thinks exceptions can be made. Hopefully, that's not causing any major conflicts between him and DIL. But, happily, due to his more relaxed attitude, you got to hold baby, after all. I'm glad.
Hopefully, future visits will be more satisfactory for you. Meanwhile, I agree with the skype and facetime suggestions. Baby might not interact much via this technology, at first, but over time, he will.