Marmight, a kaftan sounds lovely, but since my partner has Parkinson's now it will be me who has to climb put to the top bunk, so I don't think that will be practical. I'm enjoying reading all these memories of sleeper travel- we've done Cologne to Vienna ( magical, watching the full moon silver the Rhine as we passed along it) and Bologna-Paris (ancient train-pretty awful) and the Sud Express. I've never slept in a couchette, but imagine it must be quite fun if you're young, and it is cheap. However, age and the need to go to the loo in the night (particularly after a couple of glasses of vino verde) means we have booked a first class compartment with our own bathroom. Not really that expensive, as it's a long journey and we save on a hotel bill.